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CHAMBERTIN AND CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE
Domaine Armand ROUSSEAU
1, rue de l'Aumônerie
21220 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
Tél. : 33 (0)3 80 34 30 55
Fax : 33 (0)3 80 58 50 25
Charles, Corinne et Eric ROUSSEAU
www.domaine-rousseau.com
contact@domaine-rousseau.com
CHAMBERTIN 1999
Fullish colour. Oaky and blackberry-flavoured on the nose. No lack of structure. Fullish body. Balanced. Laid back and classy. Not quite the concentration and depth and powerful intensity this wine usually has but very fine. Just a slight lack of fat. Very good grip nevertheless. Very fine indeed but not great. 2010-2030. 19.5.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1999
Fullish colour. Rich, oaky nose. Lots of depth and class here. Full bodied, rich, oaky, concentrated and very lovely. Excellent grip. Slightly sweeter and more robust than Rousseau's Chambertin. Very long. 2011-2035. 19.5.
CHAMBERTIN 1998
Fullish colour. Rich, fat, concentrated nose. Fullish, profound and balanced. Very ripe tannins. Abundantly rich and fruity. This is very delicious. Not up to the 1999 standard but not far short. Lovely sweet, intense finish. 2008-2030. 19.5.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1998 -
Fullish colour. Fat, rich nose. Slightly spicier than Rousseau's Chambertin. Slightly sweaty too. Fullish body. But the tannins are not quite so sophisticated. Long and balanced. Very fine. 2009-2025. 19.5
CHAMBERTIN 1996
Medium-full colour. Just about mature. Soft, succulent nose. Oaky, sweet and aromatic. Medium-full body. Soft acidity. Fresh and complex and subtle. Lovely fruit. Still a little raw but the tannins now soft. Very, very long and lovely. 2008-2020+. 19.5
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1996
Fullish colour. Some development. Fullish, opulent, rich and concentrated. Very lovely. Like the Chambertin more accessible than other 1996s. Fullish bodied, ripe, generous and seductive. Very vigorous. Balanced. Very long and very fine indeed. 2008-2020+. 18.0.
CHAMBERTIN 1993
Medium-full colour. A little development. Brilliant nose. Gently oaky. Splendid concentration. Marvellous fruit and harmony. Indisputably great wine. Marvellous fruit. Fullish body. Now softening. Excellent harmony. Ripe. Succulent. Very, very long. Super. 2006-2030. 20.0
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1993
Fullish colour. Less developed than his Chambertin. A little more developed on the palate, though. Slightly less vigour and definition. Very high class nevertheless. Fullish bodied. Rich, very good tannin. Excellent grip and intensity. This is very, very lovely. Marvellous finish. 2006-2030. 19.5
CHAMBERTIN 1992
Fullish, vigorous colour. Plum, gentle, fresh, oaky, attractive nose. Medium-full body. Aromatic. Clean. Balanced. Classy and harmonious. Very long. Very lovely for the vintage. Now-2010. 18.0
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1992
Fullish, vigorous colour. Similar to the Chambertin. Fresh, plump, gently oaky, but a slight touch of reduction. Not as classy. This gives an astringent feel on the palate. I've had better bottles. This in only fine. Now-2010. 17.5
CHAMBERTIN 1990
Fullish, mature colour. Rich concentrated, gently oaky on the nose. Very high class. Lovely poise. Fullish, succulent, ripe and creamy. Very fresh. Very, very long and distinguished. A great wine. Very lovely long finish. Now ready. Now-2030. 20.0.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1990
Fullish, mature colour. Slightly dumber on the nose than the Chambertin. Slightly spicier and sweeter. Slightly fuller, but less pure. Lots of grip and intensity. Very lovely. Will still improved. 2006-2030. 19.5
CHAMBERTIN 1989
Full colour. Fuller and less developed than the 1990. Rather more rustic on the nose though. Aromatic. Rich, sweet and exotic, but very good grip. Long and fat and very lovely. A great 1989. Only just ready. Now-2025. 20.0.
CHAMBERTIN 1988
Fullish, mature colour. Quite a firm nose. More austere than the 1990 or 1993. But not too lean. Fullish body. Lots of definition. Balanced, fresh and classy. Succulent and even opulent at the end. Gently oaky. Long. Very lovely. Now-2020. 19.5.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1988
Fullish, mature colour. Fat, rich and more attractive than the Chambertin. As usual a little sweeter and a little more texture than the Chambertin. This is as good or even better. Very lovely. Very, very long. Excellent finish. Now-2020. 20.0.
CHAMBERTIN 1985
Medium-full, fully mature colour. Much more vigour and substance on the nose than the colour would suggest. But just a little cooked. The Clos de Bèze is fresher and classier. Fullish body. Just a little lacking the usual Rousseau flair. It should be better. Good grip. Ripe and ample. But 'fine plus' rather than excellent. Now-2010. 18.0.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1985
Medium-full, fully mature colour. Very lovely rich, Fullish, fresh, classy nose. This is very lovely. Ample, full, rich and balanced. Lots of depth. Really delicious. Lovely finish. Will keep well. Now-2015. 19.5.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1982
Medium-full colour. No undue age. Plump, ripe, generous nose. Medium full body. Slightly sweet-sour. Plenty of interest. Good grip. This has no lack of class for a 1982. Very good indeed. Drink soon. 17.0.
CHAMBERTIN 1976
Fresh-looking, medium-full colour. Succulent nose : poised, juicy, surprisingly attractive. None of the usual 1976 astringency. On the palate a little sweet and a little lightening up. Not as good and shorter on the palate than the nose would suggest. Very good. Drink soon. 16.0.
CHAMBERTIN 1969
Medium-full colour. But quite old looking. Rich, full, distinguished nose. Lots of depth. Fullish, ample, oaky, fresh and balanced. Lots of vigour. Very lovely long finish. High class. Now-2010+. 19.5
Le Chambertin 1999
Ripe, rich, profound and classy. Impeccable balance. Very long indeed. Just about as good as it gets (last tasted 27.06.03). 2010-2030.
Le Chambertin 1993
As always, an extra note of individuality, purity and class after the Clos de Bèze. A great wine (last tasted 26.03.03). 2006-2030.
Le Chambertin 1990
Real power and dimension. Splendid grip still. A great wine! (last tasted 11.06.00) Up to 2030
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1996 - to drink 2004-2018 :
Good Colour. Full, firm and rich. More austere than the 1995. Fullish body, the tannins now more or less mellow. Good grip. Lots of class and depth. Lots of energy. Very long and classy. Lovely complex fruit. Very fine.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1996 - to drink 2004-2016 :
Less firm than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. Ripe and ample and aromatic. Fullish bodied and rich on the palate. Not quite the vigour or grip at first of the CLOS SAINT JACQUES but plenty of acidity to follow-through. Slightly more clumsy though. I prefer the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. More definition at the end. Fine plus though.
LE CHAMBERTIN 1996 - to drink 2006-2020+ :
Lovely rich nose. Very well covered tannins. Clearly the best of the three 1996s. Full bodied and very concentrated. Very classy. Excellent fruit. Vigorous. Still a little tannin to resolve. Very long and very complex. An aristocratic wine. Excellent.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1995 - to drink 2005-2018 :
Good colour. Not as austere but quite full and tannic on the nose. Fullish body. Ripe and sweet. Good acidity. Just a little rough-edged for the moment. More tannic and less sophisticated than the 1996. Fine plus though. It still needs time.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1995 - to drink 2006-2020 :
Good colour. Rich, spicy, exotic nose. Even a touch of sweetness. Fullish body. Ripe and flamboyant. Slightly red fruity. Good vigorous attack. Very good grip on the follow-through. More to it than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. Lots of depth. Very fine.
LE CHAMBERTIN 1995 - to drink 2007-2020 :
Good colour. Classic nose. Lots of blackcurrant. Much less spicy than the CLOS DE BEZE. This is most impressive. Still very young. Still some tannin to resolve. Concentrated. Very good grip. Lots of substance here. Slightly adolescent still. Very lovely fruit at the end. Very long. Splendid.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1993 - to drink 2005-2025 :
Very good colour. Slightly closed-in on the nose but great depth and concentration. Very classy fruit. Lots of lovely wine here. Fullish body. Very ample and concentrated. Excellent grip. Splendid vigour and individuality. This has more dimension and concentration than either the 1996 or the 1996, and more vigour on the finish. Will last for ages. Very fine.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZEHAMB 1993 - to drink 2006-2030 :
Very good colour. Firm nose. Some tannin. Rich but closed. Lots of depth and concentration if slightly adolescent. Richer than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1993. Full body. Splendid concentration and lots of dimension here. This is fat, rich, exotic and flamboyant. Some tannin still but these tannins are very well covered. Splendid vigour and depth. Lovely.
LE CHAMBERTIN 1993 - to drink 2006-2030+ :
very good colour. Very fine nose. Like the 1995 very clean and clear-cut. Just nothing but very classy fruit and a lot of depth and complexity. Marvellously pure and rich and concentrated. This has everything. A full-bodied wine with a splendid, aristocratic, multi-dimensional character. Very, very long and complex at the end. Grand vin.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1990 - to drink now-2020 :
Very good colour. Rich, aromatic nose. A little tannin here still. Fullish body. Still a little tannic on the palate too. Ripe, quite cooked fruit flavours. Good acidity. Plump and ripe. Lots of character and depth. Just about ready. Fine plus.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1990 - to drink 2004-2030 :
Very good colour. Rather more sophisticated on the nose than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1990. Full body. Very good tannins. Splendidly vigorous, rich and once again flamboyant. Excellent grip. Very, very lovely finish. This is very fine indeed.
LE CHAMBERTIN 1990 - to drink 2004-2030 :
Very food colour. Great purity, great class on the nose. Full bodied and rich and complex and with absolutely lovely, splendidly abundant fruit. Great grip. Aristocratic. Brilliant. Great wine !
CHAMBERTIN 1949 :
Medicinal nose and less than pristine flavors that are sweet, old and soupy. Interesting but I frankly expected more from the wine in this vintage. 88/now. Note : I have had one other bottle that was substantially better though that was more than 10 years ago.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1966 :
Sweet, old, spicy burg nose with that enveloping, fragrant, utterly seductive quality followed by similar sweet, pure, mouth coating flavors that offer marvelous depth and a certain port-like sweetness on the wonderfully long finish. Delicious, silky and pure velvet. 92/now.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1971 : 92.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1972 :
Remarkably elegant aromas of entirely secondary aromas with flavors that have started to turn sweet and slightly cloying. There is good acidity on the finish as well as fine complexity but this has seen its best days and it's time to drink up even though it is capable of holding at this level for some years. 89/now to 2010.
CHAMBERTIN 1978 :
Very mature burg aromas of smoke, earth, tea and truffle that are remarkable in their purity and finesse. The fine, velvety, almost lacy flavors are elegant, seductive and rich with perfect finishing acidity. Not big but incredibly refined. Extremely impressive. 93/now to 2008.
CHAMBERTIN 1985 :
Elegant, pure and extremely spicy secondary black fruit notes cut with earth and iron aromas. The flavors are quite forward, round and supple and lacked the intensity one expects from this wine. 87/now. Note : there was a back up bottle of this wine and it showed substantially better with exactly the same nose but with much better vibrancy and richness. 90/now-2010.
1985 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : The bottle at the tasting was tired and fading and clearly not representative of this wine at its best. 96/now. Note : a bottle drunk in Los Angeles two weeks prior to the tasting was nothing short of sensational with a soaring, very expressive, kaleidoscope of spicy, pure aromas. The flavors are not especially big or powerful but there is so much velvet and luscious complexity that this is utterly seductive. Beautiful juice. 93/now-2010.
CHAMBERTIN 1987 :
Lovely perfume and fragrant spice notes trimmed in a touch of leather and the barest hint of sous bois followed by delicious flavors that are just now beginning to thin and the backend is shaped by the still prominent tannins. This is holding well but best drunk up relatively soon. 89/now to 2007.
CHAMBERTIN 1988:
There is a bit more of everything here except for more aromatic spice. Bigger, richer and with better intensity plus a bit more mid-palate depth and weight that causes the still noticeable tannins to appear better integrated. Beautiful and I would counsel drinking this over the next few years. 91/now to 2010.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1988 : Advanced secondary notes of spice, mature burg aromas and hints of leather and tea introduce rich, pretty, thoroughly delicious, velvety, round flavors underpinned by plenty of ripe tannins on the long, intense finish. This is a fine effort and while the tannins suggest that this could evolve further, I doubt the fruit will hang in there long enough for this to ever completely harmonize. That said, this is completely enjoyable now. 90/now to 2008.
CHAMBERTIN 1989:
Hint of alcohol on the nose together with fairly high-toned, pure and incredibly complex and elegant raspberry fruit. The medium weight flavors are sweet and quite intricate displaying grand cru richness and stupendous length. Delicious now and while there are still some tannins to resolve on the finish, this is approaching its apogee. In a word, stunning and yet another in a long line of great Rousseau Chambertins. 94/2004-12.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1989:
Substantial, very full and expressive nose of blackberries, pinot extract, game and earth that frame intense, complex, large-scaled flavors, excellent length and grand cru finesse. A very impressive Clos de Bèze that can be enjoyed now though will clearly be better in 3 to 5 years. 92/2004-12.
CHAMBERTIN 1990 :
Perfumed yet advanced mature Burgundy aromas offering spice, leather, earth and dark fruits that introduce very rich, forward, medium weight flavors and exceptional length. Still tannin but the fruit provided more that adequate balance and there is better than average acidity as well. A lovely wine in its own right that is beginning to drink well though it can certainly be held with confidence. 92/2005-15.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1990 : Wonderfully complex aromatics of underbrush, earth, dried herbs and spice notes followed by earthy, moderately structured flavors of real distinction and good length. This has now arrived at its peak as the flavors have rounded out and offer plenty of velvet and spice and while this can certainly be held, it is as good as it's going to get. Very good but short of inspiring and well short of the Chambertin. 89/now to 2010. Note: a magnum of this drunk in January of 2002 was materially better, with more complexity, freshness and better overall balance, rating 93/2008-20.
CHAMBERTIN 1991 :
Sumptuously rich fruit followed by flavors that are astoundingly complex and powerfully long with magisterial elegance. This is supreme in its expression of that which is Chambertin, offering power without weight yet an intensity and pungency of flavors that must be experienced to be believed. This wine has improved like a rocket since it was released and while there are still solid but ripe finishing tannins, it is slowly approaching its peak. Only a handful of Burgundies ever show this level of quality and this has to be one of the top five wines of the vintage. Reference standard Chambertin that will drink well for years. Be sure to give this as least 30 minutes of air. 96/2008-20.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1991:
Classic Clos de Bèze nose that offers an explosion of incredibly complex aromas with a flavor spectrum so broad that is akin to the unfolding of a peacock's tail. Rich, dense and structured with a finish that is almost painfully intense. Still very young, though more expressive today than the Chambertin, and offers a wonderful combination of power and finesse. There are solid tannins but they are completely buffered by all of the mid-palate sap. An elegant, altogether exquisite Clos de Bèze. 94/2006-18.
CHAMBERTIN 1993:
Much more reserved than the Bèze though it has finally begun to grudgingly open, displaying reticent black fruit and earth notes with restrained, pure and powerful, extremely rich, almost massive flavors that offer a core of inner sweetness and then does a slow build to an intense, extremely long finish. At the moment, it is not as complex as the Clos de Bèze but since this remains virtually primary in every respect, it may yet catch its stable mate. Brilliant. 94/2008-23.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1993: One of the greatest wines of the 93 vintage with a simply dazzling breadth of aromas. Perfumed and lovely yet at the same time powerful and penetrating followed by detailed, driving and still very fresh flavors that display astounding depth. More obviously structured than the Chambertin yet it finishes with the same slow building, wonderfully persistent length. A completed wine with class and breed to burn that should enable it to age well for years to come. Reference standard Clos de Bèze. 96/2008-18.
CHAMBERTIN 1996:
One of the greatest wines of the vintage with one of the most complex and stunning panoply of pinot fruit aromas I have ever experienced. Still completely primary and pristine, with the same vinous purity yet even more elegance and intensity plus notes of ripe earth, bitter chocolate hints and anise. Superbly intense, full, sharply focused, big, broad and deep flavors lead to a finish that simply goes on and on. Classy juice and this rivals the 1993 and 1991 for wines for the decade honors chez Rousseau. Simply awesome. 95/2008-20+.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1996:
Incredibly vinous, pure, pretty and exquisite aromas of dark fruit, spices, indeed positively kaleidoscopic in breadth followed by tannic, sappy, intense, remarkably complex flavors whose only deficit is a bit of density. Fresh, long and beautiful and this should age for a very long time as the balance here is first rate. 92/2008-16.
CHAMBERTIN 1999:
Fantastically complex with super dense, concentrated fruit blended with an incredible array of spices and flavors that have really beautiful depth, complexity and length. This is not a particularly huge wine but the sheer complexity and class combine to create a simply knock out Chambertin, worthy of every accolade reserved for the very best in Burgundy. Really lovely stuff in a forward style. 93/2009-18.
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1999: Pure, earthy and elegant red and black fruit notes with wonderfully rich and long flavors that perhaps lack the compelling power, structure and overall quality of the Chambertin. While not quite as dense of deep, this is exquisitely elegant and the finish lasts for minutes. Excellent rather than profound.
91/2008-16.
Bordeaux
Margaux
Cherryred color, very fine und herbal notes, spicyTabbaco, smoke and ripe fruits, Cassis, black red fruits. A touch of aged sweetness. Quite rich acid, very fresh und good balanced tannins on the pallat. Can be stored for the next 5 years (26.Nov 2006)
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Sauternes
Château Doisy Daëne,Sauternes 1999
Rich orange-golden color. Light petroly notes, flory, yeasty. Peches, Roses, yello fruits, spicy sweetness and a mouthful of wine, long finnish (21.Nov. 2006)
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Mas de Daumas Gassac - Tasting Notes
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1982
This wine has a wonderful deep red colour, with little sign of age. A youthful appearance. There is an amazing depth of cassis fruit on the nose, and this is reflected on the palate, which is big, structured and almost seamless. Lovely mineral edge to the fruit, which takes on a powerful, prune-like character. Finishes well and has a warming length. Aime Guibert says this vintage needs decades more of bottle age, and on the basis of this tasting I'm not one to disagree. From a 1982 Vintage twenty year on blind tasting. Excellent.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1983
A dark, red-mahogany coloured wine. A quite intense nose, rich with sweet, burnt, smoky fruit. Delightfully balanced and appropriate on the palate, which still has plenty of fruit and brilliantly fresh acidity. Meaty, chewy edge to the texture. This has great fluidity and considerable elegance on the palate. From a 1983 Vintage twenty year on tasting. Excellent.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1985
This has a fantastic, youthful colour, red with a purple hue. Quite remarkable. Sweet pastille fruit on the nose. Some hard, tarry notes. Big and muscular on the palate, with sweet fruit, good acidity, and tannins close to full integration. This wine will still benefit from a few more years in bottle. A ringer in a Bordeaux 1985 blind tasting. Very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1985
Obviously mature. Slight appley madeirisation on the nose - some oxidation is present. A lovely, elegant texture on the palate, and there is still a backbone of tannin. Rich and rounded, but marred by a little oxidation unfortunately. Still merits a score though. Having tasted this before in September 2002 I'm certain this is just a one-off oxidised bottle. A disappointment considering this came direct from the domaine though. Good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1990
Quite a tawny, mahogany wine. Raspberry fruit, with some mineral notes on the nose. Rich and peppery fruit on the palate, with obvious tannins but good acidity. Quite spicy. From a 1990 Vintage ten year on blind tasting. Very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1991
An impressive golden colour, but in a dry wine of this age one wonders about the possibility of oxidation with such a hue. Indeed, the nose has aromas of apple pie and toffee, with notes of madeirisation/oxidation. Fairly flat and inexpressive on entry, with cinder toffee oxidative notes, with a slightly bitter finish. Drinkable, interesting, but falling apart. From a 1991 Vintage ten year on blind tasting. Good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1991
This wine has a deep red purple colour. A touch austere on the nose, with plenty of black fruits with a youthful edge. The palate follows a similar line, although it seems somewhat austere and withdrawn. There is some stylish fruit hidden in the wings. This is a serious, styled wine, which needs a good few years to come round yet. From a 1991 Vintage ten year on blind tasting. Very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1992
A lovely mature nose, with aromas of waxy, honeyed furniture oil. The wine maintains a fresh backdrop to the array of flavours, led by honey, apple and honeysuckle. This wine is showing well today. Lovely. Very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1992
This is 90% Cabernet, the balance Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Unsurprisingly it has a mature colour when poured, but it is only a thin rim of watery-orange-pink that surrounds a wide core of colour which still holds a lot of ruby-claret pigment and certainly has plenty of depth. The nose is delightfully mature also, with lots of iron and blood character alongside some more savage notes of animal fur, rather mousey and horsey notes which suggest a trace of Brett perhaps. Rather lean on entry although there develops a little more texture through the midpalate, but only a little. There is still some evident structure here, although not overtly present it lends the wine an austere feel which means it works much better with food than without. Pleasing, mature, claretty flavour with just a little trace of rounded sweetness in the finish to caress the palate and counterbalance that midpalate austerity. It certainly has style, and the little twist of tannin in the finish suggests that there is no hurry to drink up my remaining bottles. Great length too. I drank the remainder the next day with a roasted chicken; it was perfect here, singing beautifully, showing all its mature aromas but with its fine structure working in perfect harmony on the palate with the food. Superb.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1996
A less intense but similar red-purple hue. A somewhat medicinal nose, with cloves and nuances of bacon. Very approachable wine, with prominent but not problematic tannins. The medicinal notes follow through onto the palate. Lots of fruit, with smoky, meaty, grilled bacon notes developing on the finish. From a 1996 Southern Rhone & Languedoc blind tasting. Good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Laurence 1997: A special showing of this wine, of which the first vintage was 1996. A captivating nose, redolent of apples, figs and crème caramel. It has a lovely weight and presence on the palate - it is smooth, rich and mouthfilling. Rich apple and fig flavours. Touch of sweetness, but structured and grippy. Quite amazing. I daren't predict a drinking window - I think this style of wine may go on for decades. Very good, excellent potential.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2001
Rich and exotic on the nose, with some roasted nuts and black fruit aromas. Good weight on the palate, and nice black fruit flavour profile. Rich, plenty of tannin, but not fat or opulent. Balanced. Requires a decade in the cellar. Good, potentially very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Cuvée Emile Peynaud (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2001
The inaugural vintage of this wine. Powerful, intense, exotic black fruits on the nose. The palate is sweet and ripe, with fine tannins and beautifully balanced acidity. Powerful, obvious Cabernet Sauvignon, in a sweet youthful phase. Needs eight to ten years in the cellar. Impressive stuff indeed, but what a price tag! Expect to pay in the region of £90. Very good, excellent potential.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2001
Moderately deep but vibrant red. This has class on the nose, with layers of fruit. Structured and balanced on the palate, with sweet, dark, deep-pile fruit. Correct acidity. From a Southern Rhone 2001 tasting. Very good, potential for improvement.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2002
A lifting, fresh exuberant nose, packed with lime citrus and tropical fruits. Similarly fresh on the palate, with fine acidity. Rich in fruit, and some flesh to the texture. Lovely. Drink now, or cellar and enjoy over the next five to eight years. A good impression on what is a repeat sampling of this wine. Very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2002
A barrel sample, due to be bottled Spring 2004. Bright red fruits on the nose, with a sweet, smoky, slightly yeasty edge. The palate is full, fruit-dominated, with a good amount of tannin and firm acidity. Simple and light at present - but I suspect this will fatten up and gain interest with further time in barrel. A little difficult to call in this state, but I suspect this will also need eight to ten years in the cellar. Good, potentially very good.
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 2002
Chardonnay, Viognier and Petit Manseng in equal proportions. Very pale hue. Delightfully fresh, vibrant fruit on the nose, with a tropical edge. Lovely palate. Elegant, with clean sherbet-edged fruit. From a Southern Rhone 2001 tasting. Very good.
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Califonia
Kistler Winery
Kistler Vineyards4707 Vine Hill RoadSebastopol, CA 95472
Please note: we are not open to the public for tours or tastings.
Telephone:
Main: (707) 823-5603Fax: (707) 823-6709
E-mail: info@kistlerwine.com
Homepage: www.kistlerwine.com
2003 Cuvee Cathleen Chardonnay
The 2003 Chardonnay Cuvee Cathleen, a selection of the very best barrels from the Kistler Vineyard, is undeniably sexy, full-throttle stuff. About 500 cases of this were made in 2003, and the wine comes across as a combination of the best that California can do with the complexity, minerality, and definition of a French white Burgundy. Very rich tropical fruits intermixed with some citrus oil, crushed rocks, and steely backbone provide a canvas where a large-scaled yet incredibly elegant, complex wine has been produced. This is a beauty, very long, impressive, and noble.
Robert Parker (98-100)
Full medium yellow. Pure but initially unforthcoming on the nose; with air this revealed complex notes of pineapple, peach, nectarine, sulfides and nut oil. Then fat, sweet and highly concentrated, with a seamless texture and lush flavors of peach and pineapple. This boasts the enticing sugar/acid balance of the best Kistler bottlings. Impressively long and smooth on the back end. The Cathleen is all from Wente Clones.
2003 Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay
From the vineyard surrounding the winery, the 2003 Chardonnay Vine Hill looks to be one of the candidates for the Chardonnay of the vintage. Truly profound stuff, with a stunning nose of tangerines, orange marmalade, and lemon custard, this layered, full-bodied wine has superb purity, striking minerality, and builds incrementally in the mouth, finishing with rather high-toned flavors that are buttressed by good, crisp acidity. It is a prodigious Chardonnay and comes across like a California version of Chevalier-Montrachet. This wine is young and unevolved, and I suspect it will hit its prime in 1-3 years
Medium yellow-green. Complex nose melds lime, pineapple, crushed stone and menthol. Smooth, fresh and fruity, with a captivating sugar/acid balance and terrific snap. Very young and densly packed chardonnay, with complex notes of apricot, citrus zest and nut oil. Offers terrific life in the mouth. This has the structure of a top white Burgundy. Like the Hudson bottling, this wine may ultimately merit an even higher score.
2003 Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay
The 2003 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard has a Corton-Charlemagne-like personality. Notes of acacia flower, stone fruits, liqueur of rocks, some orange blossom notes intermixed with apple skin, and hints of hazelnut and lemon butter are all present in this full-bodied, stony, mineral-dominated wine that is undeniably impressive. Again, it is backward, but there is an inner core of concentration that just goes on and on.
Medium yellow with green highlights. Subtle aromas of peach blossom, lemon cream and vanilla. Big, sweet, layered and rich; chewy but not at all heavy. Very highly concentrated wine with ripe, pure fruit flavors of citrus and stone fruits. Wonderfully ripe and fruit-driven without being exotic. Very long and rich on the back.
2003 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay
The 2003 Chardonnay Hudson E-Block has crisp acidity and a big, smoky, hazelnut-scented nose with a hint of ripe pear and various tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango. It is a traditional California Chardonnay with the oak well-integrated and the acidity zesty, giving uplifting vibrancy.
Medium yellow with a fresh green tinge. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of orange oil, minerals and coconut, lifted by a minty topnote. Highly concentrated, bright and tightly wound, with exhilerating flavors of tangerine, orange pith and minerals. Quite backward, and yet this is more about fruit than the Hyde bottling. Very fresh wine, but not yet expansive.
2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Catherine
The 2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Catherine has a ruby/purple color, a big, ripe, framboise and currant fruit nose with some floral notes, forest floor, and a touch of new oak. The wine has great purity, medium to full body, and a long finish with good acidity.
Deep ruby-red. Pungent aromas of black raspberry and pepper; less fruity today than the Kistler Vineyard example. Then denser and thicker in the mouth, if not quite as sharply delineated as the Kistler Vineyard bottling. Offers a very pure flavor of dark raspberry and a chewy impression of extract. Wonderfully ripe but with a nicely restrained sweetness. This has terrific fruit.
2003 Cuvee Elizabeth Pinot Noir
In this case, I preferred the Cuvee Catherine to the 2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Elizabeth, which reveals raspberry, pomegranate, cherry, and plum notes, crisp, tart acidity, some flowery characteristics, a lovely, medium-bodied mid-palate, and a good finish with vibrant acidity.
2003 Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir
The Burgundian 2003 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard shows a low pH style with high acidity, crisp, red currant, cranberry notes with a hint of rose petal and strawberry. It is Burgundian, medium-bodied, pure, and impressive. It should drink well for up to a decade.
Good deep ruby-red. Spicy, pungent, bright nose combines raspberry, minerals, bitter chocolate and white pepper, all lifted by a floral topnote. Sappy and fresh in the mouth, with terrific precision and cut. This has an urgent crushed raspberry flavor and a subjective juiciness. Finishes quite primary, with excellent structure and grip. Already hard to resist but this should open further within a few years of bottle aging.
2003 McCrea Vineyard Chardonnay
The 2003 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard has a Chablisien character because of its striking mineral notes in addition to lemon zest, orange rind, and a hint of tropical fruit. It is medium to full-bodied, dense, rich, layered, backward and restrained, but powerful on the palate.
Medium yellow. Fresh nose dominated by lemon and lime. Smooth and quite dry in the mouth, with a strong flavor of dusty stone to go with its citric character. Quite Chablis-like. Impressively structured and long for this bottling, and likely to develop positively in bottle for at least five to seven years.
2003 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay
Why is it that I always find buttery popcorn, tropical fruit, creme caramel, and almost roasted hazelnuts in the Chardonnays from the Dutton Ranch? The 2003 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch has that and a lot more fruit than is typical. Perhaps the low yields from a vineyard that is known for relatively abundant crops have produced a bit more intensity than usual. This is in-your-face Chardonnay that is not the most subtle wine by any means but Meursault premier cru-like, ripe and heady.
Medium yellow. Warm, smoky, soil-inflected nose hints at nut oils, peach and apricot. Voluptuous, fine-grained and seamless, with sweet, lush flavors of nectarine and nut oils. Not yet hugely complex, but shows lovely restraint to its sweetness.
2003 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay Sophisticated yet somewhat closed aromatically is the 2003 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. This can be a show stopper, so I was surprised that it didnt jump from the glass. Orange blossom, crushed rock, lemon zest, and tropical fruit all make an appearance in this impeccably well-made, medium to full-bodied wine that is more generous in the mouth than the reticent aromatics suggest.
Medium yellow. Smoky, musky nose features complex sulfides, minerals and nuts; funky in a positive way. Fat, dense, round and sweet but with lovely lightness of touch. The apricot and nut oil flavors are broad and rather powerful, yet at the same time almost magically weightless. Finishes with sneaky persistence and lovely grip.
2003 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay
Liqueur of minerals in addition to lemon oil and egg custard might well be a worthy descriptor for the 2003 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard. Light gold with a greenish hue, this wine is a bit more evolved in color than the McCrea Vineyard, but generous, full-bodied, and rich, with uplifting, vibrant acidity, giving freshness and zest to all the component parts.
Medium yellow. Warm gingery spices and nutty oak add interest to the pineapple aroma. Lush, sweet and spicy, if a bit youthfully subdued, with very ripe notes of peach and nectarine. This comes across as less obviously ripe than the McCrea or Dutton Ranch bottlings or is it simply more understated? There's lovely acidity and very good presence.
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Ridge Winery - California
Since joining Ridge’s Advanced Tasting Program a year ago, we’ve not only had the chance to buy and/or taste some very interesting recent bottlings not available to the general public, but also some older selections as well, from both the Ridge library and califusa’s cellar. Most ATP wines are made in very small quantities (thus their limited availability), and encompass a broad cross section of the red varietals grown in California. Many of these come from old vineyards still farmed by the descendants of the original owners. Whilst it might be in our selfish best interest to keep quiet with regard to this subscription program (for that’s really what it amounts to), we just can’t help but wax fondly over yet more great efforts from our favorite winery.
Here’re some of the lovelies we’ve sampled over the last few months:
1987 Ridge Bradford Mountain Zinfandel
1988 Ridge Bradford Mountain Zinfandel
Canadian Zinfan, Zinchick and our friend Mr. E all happened to be in the neighborhood not long ago, so what better excuse to sample a couple of fine old Zins?
Ridge made several older vintages of their Bradford Mountain and Howell Mountain Zins available to ATP subscribers last summer, so I opted for these two (as well as the Howell Mountain bottles I took to the WayCool bash).
Bradford Mountain overlooks the northern end of Dry Creek Valley; the vineyard that produced the fruit for these is owned by Fred Peterson, who now bottles under his own label. All of 11 barrels of the ’87 were produced, one more than in ’88. The older model is a dark garnet with just a hint of rust. The mature nose shows an interesting marriage of "Draper perfume" and plummy leather, califusa’s secondary phase Zin spice, hints of brett and chocolate. On the palate, there’s plum, prune, cinnamon and a little mint towards the finish. Canadian Zinfan commented that it tasted "somewhat baked, like an Amarone," and Mr. E and I agreed. Indeed, it seemed stronger than the 12.5% alcohol listed on the label. The tannins and acidity are fully resolved, and if it doesn’t finish quite as long as one taster thought it should, that is the only detraction, and a very minor one at that. I agreed with CZ’s opinion that this was better than the Howell Mountain bottlings from the ‘80s that we had at WayCool. Mr. E expressed surprise that Zins could age this well and called it "gorgeous." Big wows all around.
The ’88 is another dark garnet with nary a hint of brick, and is even nicer that the previous vintage. It is also at full maturity, with more perfume, spice and black zinberry on both nose and palate. (Apparently more alcohol as well; the label says this is 14.9%.) E got more leather from this, but for whatever reason, I got less. Another absolute beauty, this continues to open and open and open. My notes read: "Almost perfect; …just lovely."
1985 Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel Trentadue
1987 Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel Trentadue
These were from the cellar of califusa. The ’85 is a dark garnet with, again, nary a hint of brick. It shows spicy Draper perfume that includes notes of cedar, leather, Brasso, plum, prune, and plenty of Bree’s secondary spice. On the palate, the fruit is sweet and leathery, with tannins and acidity that will carry it down the road for a while yet. Just a gorgeous wine.
The ’87 has more fruit and perfume and less cedar and leather on the nose, with a lovely lavender, spice, black raspberry, black currant bouquet. Notes of cedar and leather do come out in the flavors however. This has nicer aromatics than the ’85, but the flavors are a bit less bumptious. It too is a beautiful wine, and will also drink nicely for some time to come.
1989 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel Dusi : Bree greeted us with this upon our return to Cloudy Bay. It’s a rusty ruby garnet that at first seemed to be more in the "intellectual" than the "sensual" realm, but with air it resuscitated very nicely, showing mature flavors and aromas of sweet plum, bing cherry, bigtime secondary spice, leather, cedar, briar/bramble and hints of chocolate and game. There is also a bit of the barnyard here, and some licorice that reminded Bree of Good ‘N’ Plenty candy. This kept opening and opening, getting better and better; I found it somewhat reminiscent of a Croze Hermitage, though the fruit is sweeter than any Croze that I’ve had. Another fine example of the fact that Zinfandel can indeed age well, and of course, another terrific Mr. Ridge!
1992 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel Dusi : A few nights after Bree opened the ’89, I pulled this from my stash to see what was what. It’s a dark garnet that seems to be in an in-between phase right now, at least when we first opened it. Showing only hints of secondary spice over a distinctive jammy zinberry bouquet, it takes on added flavors of soft leather, game, tar and licorice, but the sweet fruit seemed to be dropping off. However, after a few hours of air, it really blossoms, revealing a smooth texture and big, dark extracted black raspberry, mulberry and spicy nutmeg that Bree described as having "a lot of balls." Give this beauty a few more years in the cellar if you have any, or if you must drink it now, at least 2 hours in a decanter.
1984 Ridge Napa Petite Sirah York Creek Devil’s Hill : The color of this wine is so inky, it could be described as "squid-y." It only got 20 minutes in a decanter before we tried it, so at first, we didn’t get much on the nose. The bouquet did emerge slowly over the two hours that we sipped it, with flavors and aromas of rich sweet plum, prune, tar, leather, olives and subtle cedar. This is still deep, dark and mysterious, and doesn’t seem 15 years old. Very pretty and very sweet, this is still overwhelmed by tannins; Bree described it as "an elegant monster." It may be years from maturity, as he pointed out, but I still like it really well right now.
1990 Ridge Zinfandel Park-Muscatine : 75 % Zinfandel, 20 % Petite Sirah, 5% Carignan, 13.9 % alcohol. A gift from the esteemed califusa. My first reaction upon whiffing this was "Wow! Draper perfume!" (Wonder where THAT came from?) It has a big intense overripe jammy raspberry, black raspberry, lavender, white chocolate bouquet, but whilst the flavors echo, they aren’t as ebullient. It’s very claret-like, and seems a little flat. The mid-palate and finish are somewhat lacking, and though it wasn’t corked, it had a wood-y/mellow leather quality to it. Smells much better than it tastes, but still nice enough, especially with Kim’s fab mushroom risotto.
Ridge purchased fruit from Bill and Besty Nachbaur's Alegria Vineyard for seven years, between 1990 and 1996. I thought it might be fun to compare the final two vintages of their ATP bottling with the innaugural effort from the Nachbaur's own Acorn label, and a visit from the Canadian contingent provided the perfect opportunity.
And the Lytton Grenache? Well, like Mallory's Everest, it was just there…
1995 Ridge Zinfandel Alegria Late Picked : 77 % Zinfandel, 12 % Petite Sirah, 11 % Alicante Bouschet, 15.7 % alcohol. This dark garnet is somewhat closed on the nose initially, but opens to show pretty perfume and all sorts of red fruits, according to Canadian Zinfan. These include raspberry, black raspberry, red currant, with a whiff of dust. On the palate, the fruit has a creamy quality and echoes the nose; CZ mentioned added notes of "fungal mushroom, slate and anise seed," while Zinchick chimed in with "charcoal and nice caramel on the finish." Though this is very enjoyable already, the tannins and acidity will take it five years or more down the road.
1996 Ridge Zinfandel Alegria Late Picked : 75 % Zinfandel, 22 % Petite Sirah, 3 % Alicante Bouschet, 15.6 % alcohol. This is a deeper purple garnet than the ’95 model, and much denser, with lots of Draper perfume that reminded CZ of "bubble gum wrap," and a note of alcohol that didn’t really detract. Not surprisingly, this is more tannic and acidic than the older model, and needs time in the cellar. Still, it shows beautiful sweet mullberry and black raspberry, and will reward with five years and more in the cellar.
1997 Acorn Alegria Zinfandel : 78% Zinfandel, 11% Alicante Bouschet, 9% Petite Sirah, with the remaining 2% including Carignan, Trousseau,
Sangiovese, Petit Bouschet, Negrette, Syrah, Muscat Noir, Cinsault, and
Grenache, 15.8 % alcohol. This ruby dark garnet is more approachable than the ’96 Ridge, in a sweeter, fatter style. It has lovely flavors and aromas of black raspberry/gum/sweet anise/pepper/sweet almond. The acidity and tannins are there to take this at least a few years down the pike, and we wouldn’t disagree with CZ when he described it as "stunning."
1996 Ridge Lytton Estate Grenache : 92 % Grenache, 6 % Zinfandel, 2 % Petite Sirah, 14.5 % alcohol. Ruby garnet in color, this shows strawberry, bubble gum, red pop overtones on the nose with that big Draper signature. CZ described "thick sticky chocolate like you wouldn’t believe; black raspberry, honeycomb, pepper, big alcohol…, ho!" Good tannins and acidity don’t hide the pretty fruit here; it has the intensity of a southern Rhone and the brightness of the new world emotional style. It is also the most food friendly of the four wines tasted. Terrific stuff!
1996 Ridge Sonoma Zinfandel Nervo Vineyard : 88 % Zinfandel, 8 % Petite Sirah, 4 % Carignane, 14.3 % alcohol. This little pretty exhibits clean, warm sweet oak, raspberry, black cherry flavors and aromas on a medium full-bodied frame. It has a bit of a youthful tannic/acidic byte to it, and if it’s not a blockbuster, it is smooth and delicious now, or a few years down the road.
1996 Ridge Sonoma Mazzoni-Home : 65 % Zinfandel in a field blend with 23 % Carignane, 12 % Petite Sirah, 14.5 % alcohol. Dark garnet with a bright clean black cherry, raspberry with a hint o’ chocolate nose that follows through on the palate, this has a creamy mouthfeel. Another very nice Mr. Ridge, even if it doesn’t have the depth and complexity of Geyserville or Lytton Springs.
1996 Ridge Pagani Alicante Bouchet : This is another "squid-y" garnet, for lack of a better phrase; it’s very inky. It shows an immediate note of barnyard over perfumed plum, raspberry, strawberry, bubblegum, spice and pepper on the nose, but the fruit is much harder on the palate, with added earthy chocolate tones. It’s chewy, with plenty of tannins and acidity, along with an astringent finish. It tastes like something right out of southern France; it opens slowly like one as well. After three hours of air, it takes on dark chocolate, plum, coffee and black cherry characteristics and shows some real charm. I finally came to enjoy this a great deal, but be warned; it needs a minimum of four hours in a decanter now (it’s good with a grilled N.Y. strip). It’ll be much better with five years in the cellar.
1996 Ridge Petite Sirah Geyserville 14.5 % alcohol. Dark garnet in color, this shows pretty perfume, all raspberry, plum, chocolate and pepper on the nose and the palate. This is remarkably smooth and approachable already, unlike its counterparts from York Creek. It opens and gets even smoother with extended air, but has the tannins for a minimum of five years in the cellar. Another winner from Mr. Ridge!
1996 Ridge Contra Costa Mataro Bridgehead
1996 Ridge Pagani Mataro ATP
We tried these together, reasoning that they’d be a good comparison to add to a WCWDG group tasting.. We were right!
The first glasses of the ruby garnet Bridgehead were poured straight from the bottle, and we were immediately struck by a funky sulfur nose that Kim likened to freshly cracked hard boiled eggs. The funk blows off after 40 minutes, gradually revealing nice red currant, chocolate with a hint o’ cinnamon/nutmeg and moderate Draper perfume. This doesn’t seem to see any new oak, as the fruit isn’t what you’d call "bright;" still, the plum, cherry, red currant flavors are nice, and it grew on me as I sipped on it. It has fairly low acidity, and a fairly long finish. An interesting wine that went well with mushroom risotto.
The dark garnet Pagani ATP shows some funky sulfur too (Kim called it "an underlying egg-y thing…"), but this is the nicer of the two wines. The fruit’s a bit brighter with sweet oak, spicy red currant and raspberry flavors and aromas, but the funk takes two hours to blow off. This has good concentration and more acidity than the Bridgehead, but doesn’t seem quite up to the standard set by the lovely ’95 Pagani.
The fruit in both of these wines seems less sharp and focused than your average Mr. Ridge, but then we’re talking about Mourvedre here. I’ll wait another year before trying either again.
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South Africa
Thelema Winery - Stellenbosch
2003 Shiraz
There is some of this delicious wine still available; it's soft and spicy and drinking beautifully now.
2004 Merlot Reserve
This is a selection of the finest Merlot we produce. It is concentrated and firm and requires time to open up and show off its pedigree. Aged in new French oak barrels. Tiny quantity available.
2004 Shiraz
Robust, exuberant charmer, showing ripe blackfruit, some spice and with a lovely toasty finish.
2004 Arumdale Shiraz
This is a whopper, made from very ripe fruit. It isn't as peppery as the previous release, but is rich and velvety. Makes me more and more convinced that Shiraz will do well in Elgin.
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
One of our best vintages so far, with bags of ripe blackcurrant and coffee flavours and a firm structure; meant for the long haul.
2004 'The Mint' Cabernet Sauvignon
Concentrated cassis, mocha and dark chocolate flavours spring to the fore, with a distinctive mintiness; absolutely perfect with roast lamb!
2004 Pinotage
Nice fruity, flavourful wine, for early drinking.
2004 Merlot
Juicy, up-front fruity flavours are backed up with surprisingly firm tannins; it appears gentle, but packs a punch.
2004 Arumdale Cabernet Sauvignon
First crop fruit from our neighbour in Elgin has resulted in a charming, lightish wine, with distinctive cool-climate character.
2004 Chardonnay
This wine is drinking superbly at present. There are still some stocks available, on a first-come first-served basis.
2005 Chardonnay
Crackerjack minerally flavours with a hint of citrus on the palate and with superb mouth-feel, it needs a few months to open up and show off all its charms.
2005 Ed's Reserve Chardonnay
Similar to previous releases, showing grapiness and a hint of clove on the nose, with a velvety mouthfeel and a long, dry finish.
2005 Rhine Riesling
Very young and undeveloped at the moment; give the wine a few years to open out and show off its multi-faceted characters. Bone dry.
2006 Muscat de Frontignan
Fragrant, fresh and in nice balance; an irresistible quaffer.
2006 Sauvignon Blanc
Very similar to our previous release, with lovely fresh melon and grapefruit flavours in perfect balance.
2006 Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc
This is a beauty, with piercing mineral notes on the nose and a juicy melon attack on the palate.
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