Monday, 27 November 2006

Mas de Daumas Gassac






Mas de Daumas Gassac


Mas de Daumas Gassac was established in the 1970s, and since then has come to be described by some as a "Grand Cru of Languedoc". Such hyperbole may in some way be warranted, as these are indeed wines of excellent quality. What is more, they are made very much in the Bordeaux mould, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, with the necessary structure and stuffing for a prolonged period of ageing in the cellar. And I have, more than once, seen them mistaken for a St Estèphe in a blind tasting.
The story of how Mas de Daumas came to be has been well described, and so I will only briefly allude to it here. The property was purchased by Aimé Guibert, a Parisian glove manufacturer, with no intention of making wine. A visit from Bordeaux professor of Oenology Henri Enjalbert, however, provided the spark that lit the tinder. He recognised that the combination of the red glacial soils beneath the local garrigue, together with the altitude, and the nocturnal currents of cool air that pass over the vineyards, made the site ideal for viticulture. The first vines were planted at Mas de Daumas Gassac in 1974, with 1978 being the first vintage, made with the assistance of oenologist Emile Peynaud. There are now over 30 ha planted up, predominantly with Cabernet Sauvignon, and also with a range of other varieties, some of which may cause a few eyebrows to rise. These include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Pinot Noir, as well as a collection of Italians - Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. The white varieties are mainly Chardonnay, Viognier and Petit Manseng, but also Marsanne, Roussane, Chenin Blanc, Sercial, Muscat and more.
The grand vin at Mas de Daumas Gassac is the standard red bottling, a Vin de Pays de l'Herault. This wine is destined for the cellar, the advice from Aime Guibert being that it frequently needs decades of bottle age - tastings of the 1985, 1983 and 1982 below would seem to confirm this. The Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc, also a Vin de Pays de l'Herault, is approachable young but from experience I know it will age well also. It is a blend of 30% each of Chardonnay, Viognier and Petit Manseng, with other varieties mentioned above making up the remainder. In addition to these two wines, there is a new super-cuvée Emile Peynaud, of which the first vintage is the 2001. This wine represents just a small plot of the Daumas Gassac vineyards, using fruit from just the first hectare of Cabernet Sauvignonever to be planted at the domaine. Finally there is Vin de Laurence, a fascinating blend of late harvest Muscat (50%) and Sercial (50%) which, when I first tasted it, reminded me more of Madeira than anything else.
In addition to the estate wines Aime Guibert also produces a range of blends under the Collections des Vins Terrasses label. He has also been instrumental in assisting the local co-operative in improving quality. (3/2/04)

Contact details:
Address:
34150 Aniane
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 67 57 71 28
Fax: +33 (0) 4 67 57 41 03

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