Grosset Wines South Australia
Grosset Wines
Auburn
Clare Valley
South Australia
Tel +61 8 8849 2175
Fax +61 8 8849 2292
PROFILE
Jeffrey Grosset - Founder and owner, Grosset Wines
Stuart Pigott, a world authority on riesling, wrote after a visit to Grosset Wines that riesling wines are ‘dramatic images of the places where they grew and the seasons during which the grapes ripened'. But Grosset's wines, he said, are interfused not only with that sense of place and season, but with something he calls ‘the spirit of Jeff Grosset', a phenomenon that occurs by a means that ‘science has yet to explain'.
Jeffrey Grosset - Founder and owner, Grosset Wines
Stuart Pigott, a world authority on riesling, wrote after a visit to Grosset Wines that riesling wines are ‘dramatic images of the places where they grew and the seasons during which the grapes ripened'. But Grosset's wines, he said, are interfused not only with that sense of place and season, but with something he calls ‘the spirit of Jeff Grosset', a phenomenon that occurs by a means that ‘science has yet to explain'.
These words evoke the drama of the journey that Jeffrey Grosset has made in the past two decades. Unremitting dedication to a process that is for him a combination of the creative – often beyond explanation – and the application of technique, experience and technology has brought him to the top of his profession. His immensely disciplined approach to winemaking involves meticulous attention at every stage, from the choice of the very earth itself, as in his selection of the famous windswept site for the Gaia, to the fine tuning during pressing and fermentation. Similarly, his leading role in the quest to improve the closure of wine bottles was part of his recognition that technology and tradition had to meet and be reconciled. Confr
onting the problems of closure, Jeffrey put his own wines into screwcap. The screwcap initiative, a milestone in wine closures, culminated in the London launch in May 2005 of Taming the Screw , a screwcap manual, by Tyson Stelzer, to which Jeffrey was a contributing editor. In Grosset's own words: ‘The widespread use of an inert wine closure that works is exciting for those who love wine. No more pouring down the drain wine that the closure has made undrinkable! We can look forward now to enjoying great wine not just great bottles.'But none of his openness to technology and innovation has been at the expense of tradition or of his most deeply held convictions about his craft. Hand picking prevails exclusively in both his Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills vineyards. His pickers, many of whom have worked for him for many years, are committed to his standards, and the close working relationship that Jeffrey has with his vineyard team is indispensable to the successful management of each harvest.
All of which helps you to understand how thoroughly deserved have been his many accolades, from Jeffrey's being voted the Inaugural Volvo/ Wine Magazine Australian Winemaker of the Year and International Riesling Winemaker of the Year at the Riesling Summit II, Hamburg, both in 1998, to being listed as one of the fifty most influential winemakers in the world in Wine and Spirits , US, in 2005.
In February 2001 the same magazine published Rod Smith's tribute: ‘Jeffrey Grosset's Polish Hill riesling … tastes as though the grape juice were made of water that was filtered through layers of glacial gravel, slate and shale – which, in fact, it was (not incidentally, the vines are not grafted, but growing on their own roots). Producing the terroir-driven Polish Hill riesling has for the past two decades been a journey toward enlightenment for Jeffrey Grosset …'
But Grosset takes the concept of terroir further than Smith implies. ‘ Terroir ,' he said, in giving the inaugural New South Wales Wine Press Club lecture, ‘is the French word for what some have know in Australia for thousands of years as 'pangkarra'. Pangkarra is an Aboriginal word … that represents a concept that has no English translation but encompasses the characteristics of a specific place – the climate, sunshine, rain, geology and the soil–water relations. About the closest we can get in English is to refer to “the site”, but even that doesn't cover the major components of terroir, or pangkarra, being the soil and local topography.'
But Grosset takes the concept of terroir further than Smith implies. ‘ Terroir ,' he said, in giving the inaugural New South Wales Wine Press Club lecture, ‘is the French word for what some have know in Australia for thousands of years as 'pangkarra'. Pangkarra is an Aboriginal word … that represents a concept that has no English translation but encompasses the characteristics of a specific place – the climate, sunshine, rain, geology and the soil–water relations. About the closest we can get in English is to refer to “the site”, but even that doesn't cover the major components of terroir, or pangkarra, being the soil and local topography.'
This intellectual reach wedded to experience, intuition, and an indefinable touch of genius has brought Jeffrey Grosset to the peak of his art and profession. When, in May 2005, Grosset wines produced from the Clare Valley became 100 per cent estate grown, Jeffrey reached not the destination of his journey but a new and exciting stage. Already his achievements for Grosset Wines have been translated into advantages for the Australian wine industry generally. As an acknowledged winemaker par excellence, he can – and unquestionably will – devote himself to the continuing challenge of seeking perfection for the wine lover.
This is an exceptionally powerful and vibrant dry riesling, drinking beautifully when young but with the structure to reward those who wish to cellar this wine for up to fifteen years.Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
'Jeffrey Grosset's Polish Hill riesling … tastes as though the grape juice were made of water that was filtered through layers of glacial gravel, slate and shale – which, in fact, it was...' Rod Smith Wine and Spirits (USA) February 2001.
Grosset Polish Hill is a single site wine from the Polish Hill vineyard, planted at 460 metres above sea level on sandy loam over shallow clay with underlying gravel, shale and slate. Like the Watervale, it has been made each year since 1981.
Grosset Watervale Riesling
'Jeffrey Grosset's Polish Hill riesling … tastes as though the grape juice were made of water that was filtered through layers of glacial gravel, slate and shale – which, in fact, it was...' Rod Smith Wine and Spirits (USA) February 2001.
Grosset Polish Hill is a single site wine from the Polish Hill vineyard, planted at 460 metres above sea level on sandy loam over shallow clay with underlying gravel, shale and slate. Like the Watervale, it has been made each year since 1981.
Grosset Watervale Riesling
This is an intense and generously flavoured dry riesling that is very appealing when young but will reward cellaring.Grosset Watervale RieslingAccording to Langton's Australian Fine Wine Guide, ‘The (Grosset) Watervale Riesling is a classic Clare style. If Polish Hill is power and intensity, Watervale is restraint and pure fruit. It evokes the expectation of a mouth-watering palate and delivers it.'
Grosset Semillon Sauvignon BlancVibrant, fine and delicious, this classic blend is for lovers of flavoursome dry wine. This is the fifteenth consecutive vintage of a unique 55:45 blend of Clare Valley semillon - for the second time from the Grosset Watervale vineyard - and the Adelaide Hills sauvignon - once again from the same vineyard as previous vintages. The style remains distinctly different from the archetypal Margaret River semillon sauvignon blanc - as it is tighter, finer, more steely, and more minerally than those popular everyday drinking whites.
The 2006 has many of the hallmarks of the previous vintage but is more intense, juicier and more zesty than that wine. It has restrained yet intense cool tropical characters - guava, nectarine, lychees - and a minerally edge. There is a finesse to match the tight structure, a plump fruitiness in the mid-palate, and taut, zesty acidity. At present, it opens up considerably after 24 hours suggesting that, with six months in bottle, it will show more delicious refined fruit characters.
The 2006 has many of the hallmarks of the previous vintage but is more intense, juicier and more zesty than that wine. It has restrained yet intense cool tropical characters - guava, nectarine, lychees - and a minerally edge. There is a finesse to match the tight structure, a plump fruitiness in the mid-palate, and taut, zesty acidity. At present, it opens up considerably after 24 hours suggesting that, with six months in bottle, it will show more delicious refined fruit characters.
This very fine example of Australian chardonnay is from vineyards situated in one of the coolest sub-regions in Australia. In a review of the Top 21 Chardonnay Recent Vintages, a special tasting reported in Gourmet Traveller Wine , Summer 2004-05, the 2003 Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay shared top billing with three Margaret River Chardonnays, all scoring 96 points out of a possible 100. This rating raises some interesting questions because there is, of course, a significant difference in wine style between Margaret River and the Adelaide Hills. The Piccadilly Valley sub-region is particularly distinctive as is made clear not only in the tasting notes here but also in the Gourmet Traveller Wine panel's review: ‘Grosset's 2003 vintage showed the kind of steely, high acid style that should age very well, smelling of hazelnut cream and fresh cashews. All the tasters remarked on the finesse and refinement of this wine, talking of its grapefruit, lemon drops, cashew and ginger aromas and penetrating, tight, pure citron palate …'
Grosset Gaia
Grosset GaiaFrom Grosset's high altitude Gaia vineyard this cabernet blend gives an overall impression of power and concentration with restraint and balance. The blend of the 2003 Grosset Gaia has a touch more merlot and bit less cabernet franc than usual - cabernet sauvignon (75%), cabernet franc (15%) and merlot (10%) - and is sourced from Grosset's windswept Gaia vineyard in the Clare Valley . All components spent sixteen months in French oak barrique, 50 per cent of which were new, before the final blend was assembled.
This is a very good Gaia and, while not as forward as the previous vintage, may prove to be more approachable at a young age than most of the line. It has a brooding intensity on the nose, is supple initially, and smooth, powerful yet appears restrained, has ripe dark berry fruit flavours, some meaty, earthy notes and substantial fine tannins which build in the mouth making the finish firm and dry. It is opulent, concentrated and very impressive. It needs at least short term cellaring and will benefit from five years in the bottle, And may be cellared (in air conditioned comfort) for several more years.
Grosset Pinot Noir
This is a very good Gaia and, while not as forward as the previous vintage, may prove to be more approachable at a young age than most of the line. It has a brooding intensity on the nose, is supple initially, and smooth, powerful yet appears restrained, has ripe dark berry fruit flavours, some meaty, earthy notes and substantial fine tannins which build in the mouth making the finish firm and dry. It is opulent, concentrated and very impressive. It needs at least short term cellaring and will benefit from five years in the bottle, And may be cellared (in air conditioned comfort) for several more years.
Grosset Pinot NoirJeffrey Grosset makes tiny quantities of Pinot Noir from the central Adelaide Hills. Acknowledged as the original varieties of Burgundy , pinot noir and chardonnay seem to have found a new and exciting home in the Adelaide Hills. While various producers have built their reputation on one or other of these varieties, none has equalled the success Grosset has enjoyed with this pair of noble varieties grown in the Adelaide Hills. Ralph Kyte-Powell writing in The Age on 22 June 2004 , said that ‘Jeff Grosset's meticulous winemaking isn't confined to riesling'. Nor, for that matter, to the Clare Valley , and given that the re-planting of vineyards in the Adelaide Hills has only occurred since the early 1980s, their full potential is only just emerging.
In answer to the question whether or not Grosset Pinot Noir is Burgundian, Jeffrey Grosset says the wine is not, but that the techniques employed to produce it are. Or at least they have been until this vintage. After eleven years there has been a subtle change in approach involving the use of new fermenters which automatically but gently plunge the pinot. These fermenters are a revolutionary innovation not only because of their precision – they can be timed to plunge at regular intervals – but also because they remove the need to foot plunge at three in the morning!
Comparison with great Burgundy is, of course, inevitable, and although the description of the wines in the tasting notes to follow alludes to a different taste, their structure and finesse – qualities that pinot lovers often value the most – reflect the distinctly mild days and cold nights of the central Adelaide Hills.
As has been usual in recent years, this has been sourced from the same two Adelaide Hills vineyards and continues to show more depth and length of flavour as the vines mature. It is delightfully fragrant with characteristic aromas of Adelaide Hills pinot: dark plums, sour cherries and follows through with similar savoury flavours on the mid palate while the aftertaste lingers long in the memory.The wine is intense, has good weight and is beautifully focused. It appears more youthful than usual and not as overtly ripe as in some years (despite that it shows no unripe characters – it is just more restrained).
Grosset Pinot Noir 2004
The 2004 Grosset Pinot is vibrant, fine, tightly structured, has silky texture and great length. It will develop in the short term and may be cellared for up to five years, if you can resist the temptation to drink it sooner.
As in previous years, 40 per cent was whole-bunched fermented and immediately after pressing was run into barrels (60 per cent new barriques) and matured for twelve months.
In answer to the question whether or not Grosset Pinot Noir is Burgundian, Jeffrey Grosset says the wine is not, but that the techniques employed to produce it are. Or at least they have been until this vintage. After eleven years there has been a subtle change in approach involving the use of new fermenters which automatically but gently plunge the pinot. These fermenters are a revolutionary innovation not only because of their precision – they can be timed to plunge at regular intervals – but also because they remove the need to foot plunge at three in the morning!
Comparison with great Burgundy is, of course, inevitable, and although the description of the wines in the tasting notes to follow alludes to a different taste, their structure and finesse – qualities that pinot lovers often value the most – reflect the distinctly mild days and cold nights of the central Adelaide Hills.
As has been usual in recent years, this has been sourced from the same two Adelaide Hills vineyards and continues to show more depth and length of flavour as the vines mature. It is delightfully fragrant with characteristic aromas of Adelaide Hills pinot: dark plums, sour cherries and follows through with similar savoury flavours on the mid palate while the aftertaste lingers long in the memory.The wine is intense, has good weight and is beautifully focused. It appears more youthful than usual and not as overtly ripe as in some years (despite that it shows no unripe characters – it is just more restrained).
Grosset Pinot Noir 2004
The 2004 Grosset Pinot is vibrant, fine, tightly structured, has silky texture and great length. It will develop in the short term and may be cellared for up to five years, if you can resist the temptation to drink it sooner.
As in previous years, 40 per cent was whole-bunched fermented and immediately after pressing was run into barrels (60 per cent new barriques) and matured for twelve months.
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