Tasting Latricieres, Marzis, Rucchottes-Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques

A TASTING OF LATRICIÈRES, MAZIS

AND RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN

PLUS GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, CLOS SAINT-JACQUES

In March 2004, at the annual Guildford, CT, wine tasting, we sampled Chambertin and Chambertin, Clos de Bèze. This year we decided to review the other up-slope grands crus, plus Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques. This premier cru lies on the opposite side of the village but is considered by its five producers to be of grand cru quality, and is priced accordingly.

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN

Surface Area: 7.35 ha Average Production: 255 hl

(33660 bottles)

Principal Producers: Camus (1.5 ha), óJoseph Faiveley (1.21 ha); Rossignol-Trapet (76 a); Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet (75 a); Drouhin-Laroze (67 a); Louis Remy (58 a); óLeroy (57 a); Vadey-Castagnier/Newman (53 a); Ponsot (up to 1994), Bize (from 1995) (32 a); Duroché (28 a).

Latricières - the word means poor in the sense of infertile - lies directly to the south of Chambertin. It shares much of the same soil and subsoil, a white oolitic marl on a solid rock base, with very little surface earth, but the land is flatter. There is almost no slope except at the upper end just under the trees.

Dr. Morelot (1831) ignores it - probably the wine was passed off as Chambertin in those days - and Lavalle (1855) classed in as a deuxième cuvée. One hundred and fifty years ago there were three proprietors (MM Gournot, Ouvrard and Marion). Today there are 10.

Latricières is a sturdy wine, robust in its youth, spicy and gamey in its maturity, and it lacks both the distinction of Chambertin and Clos-de-Bèze and the finesse of Mazis and Ruchottes. In good hands though (Leroy and Faiveley for example) we can find a thoroughly satisfactory, warm-hearted bottle. But a Latricières is a second division grand cru nonetheless.

MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN

Surface area: 9.10 ha Average Production: 320 hl

(42,250 bottles)

Principal Producers: óHospices de Beaune (1.75 ha); óJoseph Faiveley (1.20 ha); Rebourseau (96 a); Vachet-Rousseau (up to 1995), Harmand-Geoffroy (since 1996) (73 a); Bernard Maume (67 a); óArmand Rousseau (50 a); Suzanne Thomas-Collingon (50 a) (en métayage to André Esmonin); Gabriel Tortochot (42 a); Phillipe Naddef (42 a); Gelin (38 a); Camus (37 a); Dupont-Tisserandot (36 a); óD'Auvernay (Mme Bize-Leroy) (26 a); óBernard Dugat-Py (22 a); Vadey-Castagnier/Newman (19 a); óJoseph Roty (12 a); Philippe Charlopin-Parizot (12 a).

Mazis, often spelt with a 'y', and with or without the final 's', has the same etymological origin, it is suggested, as Mazoyères, and indeed various Maizières: the word means hamlet. It lies under Ruchottes, between Clos-de-Bèze and the village of Gevrey, above the Route des Grand Crus and is divided into the Mazis hauts and the Mazis Bas, the former being considered the superior parcel. Since 1855 it has absorbed part of Les Corbeaux, increasing its surface area by about 60 ares.

The soil is similar to that of Clos-de-Bèze, shallow, especially in the hauts, the Bajocian bedrock poking out in places, and the wine, at its best, comes the closest in quality, both in volume and in distinction, to the two great grands crus. Mazis is well-coloured, rich in tannin, has good grip, and a most attractive, even opulent fruit: blackberry and black cherry to add to the petits fruit rouges. Madame Lalou Bize of Maison Leroy has for long produced a Mazis to conjure with: indisputably grand vin. Now she owns a parcel in her own right - and it is the same vines whose wine she bought in the first place.

RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN

Surface Area: 3.30 ha Average Production: 115 hl

(15,000 bottles)

Principal Producers: óArmand Rousseau (Clos des Ruchottes) (1.10 ha); óMugneret-Gibourg (67 a); óChristophe Roumier (54 a); Suzanne Thomas-Collignon (50 a) (en métayage to André Esmonin) (often bought by óJadot); François Trapet (21 a); Henri Magnien (16 a); Château de Marsannay (10 a); Marchand-Grillot (8 a).

Ruchottes - the word comes from rochers (rocks) - is always plural, while Griottes and Mazis can be either. The climat, small, steep, much parcellated, lies above Mazis and beneath a little road which disappears into the mountains on its way to Curley. Across the road is the premier cru Le Fonteny.

As in the top part of Chambertin and Latricières, there is oolitic marnes blanches here, and once again very little surface soil. The result is a wine of the same size as Mazis, but with more of the structure showing, less fat, less lush, more mineral. A vin de garde, and a very satisfactory one. Give it time. There is plenty of depth and a mulberry-type fruit balanced by a cool acidity.

All three principal proprietors owe their land to the break-up of the Thomas-Bassot domaine. Thomas Bassot was founded in 1852, and soon became the proprietor of the lion's share of Ruchottes. In 1976, after a succession of family problems and personal tragedies, the firm was sold to Jean-Claude Boisset and the domaine was put on the market. Christophe Roumier share-crops the Ruchottes of Michel Bonnefond, a wine-lover who lives near Rouen.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, CLOS SAINT-JACQUES

Surface area: 6.70 ha Average production: 2350 hl (31,000 bottles)

Principal proprietors: óBruno Clair (1.00 ha); óSylvie Esmonin (formerly Michel Esmonin & Fille) (1.60 ha); óDomaine Fourrier (0.89 ha); óLouis Jadot (1.00 ha); óArmand Rousseau (2.20 ha);

When they came to decree what was grand cru and what was not in the 1930s, it was decided that only climats contiguous with Chambertin and Clos-de-Bèze would be considered for top rank. Ruchottes and Mazoyères scraped in, for a finger of each touches the magic core. Clos Saint-Jacques, on its own, but perfectly poised on the Combe de Lavaux flank, was excluded. No one who owns a part of this vineyard (there are only five, and they all today produce excellent wine) would agree with this judegment. Neither would other, more dispassionate outsiders.

In the Armand Rousseau cellar you are given the Saint-Jacques to taste after the Clos-de-la-Roche, Ruchottes and Mazis, and the Saint-Jacques is awarded a higher percentage of new oak. It is always the better wine.

In the 19th century the vineyard belonged exclusively to the Comte de Moucheron. In 1953, at which time the métayer was Henri Esmonin, grandfather of Sylvie, it was divided and sold to antecedents of the present producers. It lies on the same elevation as Chambertin, and the soil is a white marl similar in constitution, though the incline is marginally greater. The fruit ripens just a little later, owing to a fresh wind which can flow out of the Combe. But the wine can be exquisite: rich, ample, full-bodied and distinctive. This is a wine of real depth and dimension, slightly lusher and plumper than the two greatest Gevrey wines, but no less classy, no less inspiring. It is clearly head and shoulders above all the other Gevrey premiers crus.

THE TASTING

The following wines were tasted chez my friend Bob Feinn of Mount Carmel Wines, Hamden, CT, early in April 2005.

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN

Latricières-Chambertin, 1997 Now-2010 15.0

Maison Dominique Laurent

Full, youthful colour. Somewhat robust and unrefined on the nose. Medium-full body. Soft and sweet on the palate. Not a lot of acidity but not too short. Good but not great.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1996 Now-2015 14.5

Domaine Trapet Père & Fils

Good full colour. No sign of age. Ripe, fullish, stylish, succulent nose. Ample and rich. Medium to medium-full body. It lacks a little concentration and grip. Slightly one-dimensional. And only medium class. Just about ready. Quite good plus.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2011 14.0

Domaine Joseph Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Some maturity. Slightly rustic and stemmy on the nose. Sweet and ungainly on the palate. Medium-full body. Slightly astringent. Lacks freshness and distinction.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1990 Drink Soon 15.0

Domaine Camus Père & Fils

Lightish, well matured colour. Stemmy nose. Not too coarse or weedy though. Medium body. Ripe. Quite fresh. Quite stylish. Positive finish. Better than I expected. Good.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2020 18.5

Domaine Joseph Faiveley

Fullish colour. Rich, full, oaky nose. Full, concentrated, classy and profound on the palate. Very good acidity. Cool and composed. Complex and multi-dimensional. Lots of depth and class. Very fine.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2020+ 18.5

Domaine Leroy

Fullish colour. Splendidly rich, concentrated, oaky nose. A lot of depth and vigour here. Full bodied, rich, aromatic, concentrated and still very vigorous. A meaty example. Exotic and Californian. Classy too. Very fine.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2009 15.5

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Medium-full, fully mature colour. Mature nose. Good but without the depth, grip or class of Faiveley's Latricières. Medium to medium-full body. Fully ready. Decent grip. It lacks a bit of richness and concentration but good plus.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2010 16.5

Domaine Trapet Père & Fils

Fullish, mature colour. Ripe, ample, concentrated, stylish nose. Plenty of depth. Fullish body. Slightly spicy. Fully mature. Good grip. Just a bit ungainly. Slightly cooked and a bit oxidised. Quite rich. Very good plus.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1988 Now-2015 18.5

Maison Joseph Drouhin

Medium-full, well matured colour. Very lovely, cool, stylish nose. Not a bit too austere. Complex, classy and ample. Medium-full body. Very good grip. Generous and very lovely and very long at the end. Very fine.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1985 Now-2012 18.0

Domaine Laurent Ponsot

Medium-full, mature colour. Ripe, rich, slightly stemmy on the nose. Very fresh on the palate. Good energy. Medium-full body. Good grip. Classy, long and complex. Fine plus.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1985 Drink Soon 15.5

Domaine Trapet Père & Fils

Medium colour. Fully mature. Sweet, slightly stemmy nose. Evolved. Soft. Not very classy. Slightly over-chaptalised. Decent grip and a positive finish. But good plus at best.

Latricières-Chambertin, 1978 Now-2010+ 18.0

Domaine Laurent Ponsot

Fullish, fresh colour. Ripe, classy nose. Sensuous and aromatic now. Fullish body. Vigorous. Good grip. Lots of depth. Long. Fine plus.

MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN

Mazis-Chambertin, 2000 2009-2022 18.5

Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Full colour. Rich, chocolaty nose. Lots of concentration. Lots of maceration too. Not over-extracted on the palate. Fullish body. Rich and concentrated. This has good backbone, very good grip and lots of depth. Very fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 2000 2008-2018 17.0

Maison Vincent Girardin

Medium-full colour. Round, ripe, gently oaky nose. Medium to medium-full weight. Ample and round. Good acidity and good depth for the vintage. Very good indeed.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2010-2030 18.5

Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Full, immature colour. Rich, full, concentrated and meaty nose. Plenty of backbone and plenty of depth. Full bodied, tannic, backward but rich and potentially very impressive. Just needs time. Complex and stylish and very long on the palate.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2006-2011 13.0

Domaine Joseph Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Some development. Curiously slight on the nose. Rather lean. Disappointing. Better on the palate. Ripe and juicy but nevertheless short and getting attenuated. A bad bottle?

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2009-2025+ 17.5

Maison Vincent Girardin

Full colour. Rich, round, gently oaky nose. Plenty of depth and interest here. Fullish body. Good backbone. Very good concentrated, old-viney fruit. Lots of depth and class. Long. Fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2009-2024 17.0

Domaine Bernard Maume

Medium-full colour. Some development. Quite a spicy nose. Even a touch of the rustic. Medium-full body. Ripe, ample and succulent. No lack of finesse. Slightly burly at the end but balanced and very good indeed.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2012-2030 16.0

Domaine Philippe Naddef

Full colour. Tough, oaky, over-macerated nose. Over the top. Rather astringent on the palate. Full bodied, rich and tannic. good grip. But will it ever soften?

Mazis-Chambertin, 1999 2006-2011 13.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Rather quite weak-looking colour. Ripe nose. Quite forward. Potentially attenuated. Medium body. Ripe but weak-kneed. One-dimensional. Lacks grip, vigour, depth and concentration. Only fair.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1998 2008-2020 18.0

Maison Joseph Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Still very youthful. Ripe, rich, civilised, succulent nose. Fullish body. Good tannins. Very good grip. Lots of depth and class here. Lots of dimension. Lovely ample, vigorous follow-through. Fine plus.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1998 2010-2025+ 19.0

Hospices De Beaune

Made by Alain Corcia for Troigros. Full colour. Full, rich, not too oaky nose. Good depth and dimension here. Very rich and fat. Full body. Some tannin. Oaky. Lovely blackberry flavour. Almost sweet. Very creamy, old-viney. Backward. Potentially very fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1998 2006-2010 13.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Light to medium colour. Light, slightly boiled-sweet, fruity nose. No great depth. Light, fresh, fruity on the palate. Not short but one-dimensional. Forward. Disappointing.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1997 Now-2010 16.0

Domaine Bernard Maume

Medium-full, mature colour. Succulent, rich, slightly oaky, ripe nose. Civilised on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Not a lot of grip so slightly astringent at the end. But ripe and stylish. Very good and reasonably fresh.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1996 2006-2012 14.0

Maison Camille Giroud

Medium-full colour. Some evolution. The nose is quite developed as well. Slightly barnyardy. Slightly attenuated. Medium-full body. Decent acidity. But not enough concentration and class. Quite good.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1996 See Note

Hospices De Beaune

Made by Alain Corcia for the Troigros restaurant. Full colour. Stewed and chemical on nose and palate. Dirty. No.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1996 See Note

Domaine Bernard Maume

Fulllish colour. Corked.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1996 2008-2015 15.0

Domaine Philippe Naddef

Full colour. On the nose not too dense or astringent. Rich and full. Quite full on the palate. Fesh. Good grip. Slightly clumsy though. Yet a vigorous finish. Good at best.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1995 Now-2025 18.5

Hospices De Beaune

Made by Frédéric Esmonin. Full colour. A touch of brown. Rich, ripe, ample and plummy on the nose. Fullish body. Just about ready. Old viney concentration. Very good grip. Cool and classy. Lovely. Very fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1995 2008-2020 17.0

Domaine Philippe Naddef

Medium-full colour. Now some evolution. Firm on the nose, with a touch of mint, but good depth. Not too tough. Medium-full body. Some tannin from the oak. Good grip though. Needs two to three years to round off. Very good indeed.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1995 Now-2025 18.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full, mature colour. Ripe, round, ample and fragrant on the nose. Medium-full body. Ripe, almost sweet. Very classy. Very harmonious. Long, fragrant and profound. Very fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1994 Now-2010 18.0

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Good colour. Stylish, clean, ample nose. Very impressive for a 1994. Medium-full body. No tannic backbone any more. Succulent and fruity. Fresh and fine quality. No lack of depth. Long. Unexpectedly delicious. Fine plus for the vintage.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2013 16.0

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Medium to medium-full, mature colour. Not as sophisticated as his 1995 Hospices de Beaune on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fragrant and ripe on the palate. Fresh. Good fruit. But very good rather than fine. Positive at the end.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1993 2007-2017 16.0

Domaine Philippe Naddef

Very full colour. Tough, monolithic nose. Dense and tannic. Fullish body. Some astringency from the wood tannins. Good grip. Very good fruit underneath. Cool and potentially profound. But the oak overwhelms.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2013 16.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full, fully mature colour. Round, sweet and quite evolved. On the palate not a lot of depth and grip. Fruity and stylish. Ripe, almost sweet. But a slight lack of bite and backbone. Very good at best. His 1995 is better.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2020 17.5

Domaine Vachet-Rousseau

Good colour. Ripe, aromatic and succulent on the nose. Fullish, ample, ripe and rich. Plenty of depth. Succulent, fat, indeed creamy. Very seductive. Lovely. Fine. Just about ready.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1990 2007-2030 19.0

Hospices De Beaune

Made by Antonin Rodet. Medium-full, fully mature colour. Rich, concentrated, slightly cooked, slightly reduced nose. This soon blew off. Full, rich, ample, old viney, creamy chocolate flavours. Still a little tannin. Not a bit too oaky. Excellent grip. Lots of dimension. This is very fine plus.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1990 See Note

Domaine Bernard Maume

Full colour. Rich, fat and rustic, but corked. I don't think it was ever that classy.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2010+ 16.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full colour. Fully mature. Soft, round and gently oaky. Gently sweet nose. Not the grip of his Ruchottes. Medium body. Fully evolved. Sweet and attractive but it lacks grip and depth. Very good at best.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1988 Now-2015 17.5

Domaine Joseph Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Slightly chunky, coffee-flavoured nose. A bit dense. Fullish body. Good depth and grip. Slightly ungainly on the attack but better on the follow-through. Good fruit. Vigorous. Still youthful. Fine.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1988 Now-2015 18.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium, well matured colour. Soft, ripe, aromatic nose. Ample, ripe, plummy and full of fruit. This is very seductive. Round and rich and with very good grip. Medium-full body. Complex. Fine plus.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1985 Drink Soon 16.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full, fully mature colour. Ripe nose. Caramelly. Not a lot of grip and depth. On the palate a good attack but then it tails off a bit. It is losing its class. Very good but not great.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1971 See Note

Domaine Lichine-Newman

Lichine label. Medium-full colour. No undue age. Slightly corked.

Mazis-Chambertin, 1966 Drink Soon 18.5

Domaine Pierre Gelin

Medium, fully mature colour. But very classy nose. Fragrant and positive and silky. Medium body. Sweet and succulent. Very good grip. Long, clean, elegant and lovely. Very, very fresh. Very fine. Drink soon.

RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 2000 2006-2013 16.0

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Light nose. A little thin. Stylish fruit on the palate. Not a lot of backbone. But fresh if a little lean. No lack of elegance. Forward. Very good at best.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 2000 2006-2012 15.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full colour. Light, fruity nose. Not much depth or strength. Fruity on the palate. A bit lean. Pleasant but no great definition or substance. Good at best.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1999 2009-2025+ 18.5

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Fullish colour. Rich, succulent, very classy nose. Fullish body. Very harmonious. Fullish body on the palate. Very lovely, classy fruit. Slightly cool. Yet ample and generous. Finely balanced and very profound. Excellent.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1999 2007-2014 15.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full colour. Much fuller than his Mazy. Nevertheless a slight lack of substance and backbone on the nose. Medium weight. Not a lot of tannin. Nor grip or dimension. Pleasantly fruity attack, but that's it. Nothing to follow. Good at best.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1998 2008-2020+ 18.0

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Some development. Ripe, rich, fresh, profound nose. Very elegant. Medium-full body. Poised. Succulent. Very harmonious. Long and complex. Very civilised. Lovely finish. Fine plus.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1997 Now-2010 15.5

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Now mature. Soft nose. Full of fruit if without great class or depth. Medium body. Slightly attenuated. Not much backbone. Decent fruit and even class but a slight disappointment.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1996 See Note

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Full colour. Still very youthful. Corked.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1996 See Note

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Corked.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1996 2007-2030 19.0

Domaine Georges Roumier/Michel Bonnefond

Fullish colour. Some fat. Rich, fat, concentrated, high class nose. Full body. Very lovely fruit. Just about ready. Lots of vigour. Still needs a year or two for preference. Excellent follow-through. Very classy. Very profound and very long. Very fine plus.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1996 Now-2020 18.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium colour. Fully mature. Ample nose. Ready now. Slightly lean but good fruit and depth underneath. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and fragrant. Fresh. Slightly sweet. But lovely fragrant Pinot Noir. Long and complex. Fine plus.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1995 Now-2025 18.0

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Medium-full, mature colour. Lovely fruit on the nose. Ample. Plump. Cool. Balanced and ripe. Medium-full body. Good structure. Not quite the depth and complexity of his Mazis but fine and lovely. Profound and long at the end. Just about ready.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1995 Now-2025 18.5

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Just about mature. Fine nose. Balanced. Intense. Pure and classy. Medium to medium-full body. Subtle, balanced, very pure and very lovely. Very elegant. Very long. Now ready.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1995 2007-2027 19.0

Domaine Georges Roumier

Fullish, mature colour. Firm nose. Rather closed. A hint of the stems. Cleaner on the palate. Still a little raw and astringent. Very concentrated, very ripe fruit. Medium-full body. Intense, cool and very classy. Very lovely. Indeed very fine plus.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1995 Now-2020 19.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full, mature colour. Ripe, round nose. More evolved than their Mazis. Charming and fragrant. Medium-full body. Not as fat as the Mazis or as profound but very lovely. Intense, ripe and very long. Very impressive fruit.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2018 18.5

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full colour. Just about mature. Rich, ripe, fragrant, balanced and cool on the nose. Lots of finesse. Medium-full bodied, cool, pure and balanced. I prefer the 1995 which is more concentrated. But this is very lovely. Very composed. Very fine.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1993 Now-2025+ 19.5

Domaine Georges Roumier

Magnum. Fine colour. Profound, rich, full, very concentrated and very classy indeed on the nose. This is excellent. Full body. Very profound. Very lovely fruit. Now just about ready. Very complex at the end. Multi-dimensional. Super duper!

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1991 Now-2015 18.0

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Good fullish, mature colour. Aromatic nose. Fragrant. Succulent. Now the secondary/tertiary fragrances. Soft and long. Delicious. Fine plus.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2020+ 18.5

Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret

Medium-full, mature colour. Youthful, vigorous, cool, high quality nose. Very lovely. Medium-full body. Very composed. Subtle and understated. Rich and ripe and cool and harmonious. Very long and complex. Lovely finish. Very fine.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1990 Now-2020+ 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish colour. Much fuller than their Mazis. Fresh nose. Quite firm. Very good depth. Fullish body. Good grip. Now à point. Nice plummy-chocolate fruit. Cool. Much more interesting than the Mazis. Long. Very fine.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1989 Now-2009 15.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full colour. Well matured. Unexpectedly, a little stemmy on the nose. Sweet but slightly rustic on the palate. No great elegance. Good but not great. Medium body. Decent acidity but not very fresh.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1988 Now-2015 17.5

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin

Medium-full, mature colour. Slightly tough on the nose. But good depth here, if a little ungainly. On the palate full body, very good concentration of fruit and good grip. Quite oaky. Slightly light but not a bit lean. Fine finish. Lots of depth and class. Fine.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 1988 Now-2015 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish, mature colour. Slightly reduced at first on the nose. But rich underneath. Medium-full body. Aromatic. Fresh but fat, long and profound. Lovely.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, CLOS SAINT-JACQUES

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 2000 2008-2020 18.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium to medium-full colour. Good fruit. Good style on the nose. Ripe, ample and with good depth on the palate. Medium-full body. Just a little tannin. Just a touch of oak. Plenty of dimension. Balanced. Fine plus.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 2000 2007-2015 17.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium to medium-full colour. Richer and fuller than his Ruchottes on the nose. But not a great deal of depth. Riper and fatter on the palate. Medium-full body. Just a little tannin. A touch of oak. Good follow-through. Ample. Very good indeed.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1999 2009-2019 16.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium-full colour. Closed-in on the nose but real depth and quality here. Concentrated. Backward. Impressive. Slightly dense on the attack. Adolescent. It seems to lack a little drive. So the finish is slightly flat. Curious. Very good at best today.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1999 2008-2016 16.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish colour. More profound than the Mazis and the Ruchottes. Much more on the nose as well. Rich and succulent. More oaky too. Decent weight. A little tannin. Good ample attack. Reasonable follow-through and finish. But very good plus rather than fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1998 2008-2014 16.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium-full colour. Backward but profound on the nose. Very good grip. Lovely fruit. Lots of dimension. Adolescent at present, like the 1999. Something has mixed up this wine, especially at the end. An adolescent phase? It seems a bit short. 16.0/20.0 today?

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1998 2006-2013 15.0

Domaine Dominique Laurent

Medium-full colour. Slightly dense on the nose. Not over oaked but a bit clumsy. Medium to medium-full body. Slightly rustic. Some oak on the palate. Slightly unsettled. Lacks class. Merely good.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1998 2007-2015 16.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full colour. Some oak on the nose. Medium weight. Succulent. Ripe, even a little sweet. Some oak. Decent attack. Very good on the follow-through but slight suggestions of astringency. Very good at best.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1997 Now-2012 17.0

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full colour. Now just about mature. Rich, oaky, fat, slightly reduced nose. Medium to medium-full body. Succulent. Good acidity. Stylish. Not great but very good indeed.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1996 Now-2022 18.0

Domaine Jean-Claude Fourrier

Full colour. Still youthful. Graceful. Slightly closed-in. Ripe, concentrated nose. Not as profound or as concentrated as Jadot's or Rousseau's. Lovely balance nevertheless. Medium-full body. Fragrant. Stylish. Very lovely fruit. Ready. Fine plus.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1996 2007-2030 19.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Full colour. Still youthful. This is excellent on the nose. Ample, rich and very concentrated. Very classy too. Lovely balance. Full bodied and profound. Still a little closed-in. But a very lovely wine. Lots and lots of depth. Excellent fruit. Very, very long.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1996 Now-2028 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full, mature colour. The nose though is still vigorous and even a little closed. Rich anf fat, ample and very gently oaky. Medium-full body. Round. Very ripe. Very succulent and seductive. Lovely long, smooth finish. Very fine. A point but very vigorous.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1993 2006-2025 19.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Fullish colour. Barely mature. Still a bit tight on the nose. Unforthcoming. But rich, concentrated and profound nevertheless. More open on the palate. Profound and succulent. Lots of drive. Very long. Very impressive.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1993 Now-2020+ 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full, mature colour. Very lovely nose. Succulent, ripe, concentrated fruit. Not a bit tough or heavy. Yet intense and fresh and concentrated and complex. Medium-full body. Lovely fruit. Very fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1990 2007-2030 19.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Fullish, mature colour. Still youthful on the nose. Full and rich. Still needs time. Full body. Still some tannin. Very concentrated. Still quite firm. A little more time is still required. But this is very lovely and very profound. Very good grip. Excellent finish. Very fine plus.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1990 Now-2020+ 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full, mature colour. More mature than the Mazis, less so than the Ruchottes. The nose combines the fruit of the former, the grip of the latter and then adds some. Very profound. Full, ample, balanced and à point. Multi-dimensional. High class. Very lovely finish.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1988 Now-2009 14.0

Domaine Michel Esmonin & Fille

Fullish colour. Now fully mature. Soft, round, plump nose. Slight touch of the stems. Decent class but not the greatest amount. Medium body. Lacks real concentration. But fresh and pleasantly fruity if not great depth and class. OK but not brilliant. Declined in the glass. Drink soon.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1988 Now-2025 19.5

Domaine Louis Jadot

Fullish colour. Still youthful. Very full, rich, concentrated, chocolaty nose. Splendid depth of flavour. Real dimension. A little closed-in still. The attack is OK, the finish brilliant. Full body. Very, very rich and concentrated. Excellent grip. Very fine plus.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1988 Now-2025 19.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish, mature colour. Richer and more concentrated than the Ruchottes. More ample. More depth. More complete. Full bodied, rich and very concentrated. Marvellous fruit. Great intensity and class. Marvellous finish. Excellent. Only just ready.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1987 Drink Soon 18.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

Fresh, mature colour. Round, ripe, fresh, oaky nose. On the palate medium to medium-full body. Good fruit. Balanced. Still has vigour and life. Classy and remarkably good for the vintage. 18/20 for the vintage.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1985 Now-2012 18.5

Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full colour. Rich, full, concentrated and very profound on the nose. This is very composed and lovely. Fullish body. Very fine fruit. Very vigorous too. Very lovely. Very fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1982 Drink Soon 17.5

Domaine Clair-Daü

Medium, fully mature colour. Aromatic, classy, soft and smooth. Medium body. Still most enjoyable. This shows the class of the climat. Fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1976 Drink Soon 15.0

Maison Roland Remoissenet

Full, vigorous colour. Muddy nose. Fruity but it lacks class. Fullish body. Fruity on the palate. Slightly lumpy. Slightly rigid. OK but not special.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1971 Now-2010 18.5

Domaine Séguin

Lichine label. Medium, fully mature colour. Lovely succulent nose. Round. Medium-full body. Balanced and profound. Still vigorous. Lovely fruit. Long and aromatic and very lovely. Very fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1945 Now-2010 19.5

Conte De Moucheron, Château De Meursault

Fine, full, vigorous colour. Ripe, fat and chocolaty on the nose. 1990-ish. Youthful, very rich and concentrated. Even more so as it developed in the glass. Full bodied but plump, intense, fat and very, very lovely. This is a really excellent bottle. Great complexity of fruit. Splendid vigour. Not a bit astringent or clumsy. Lots of life ahead of it.