2002 Burgundy Annual Domaine Familiaux, Master of Wine Tasting
2002 BURGUNDY
The Annual Domaines Familiaux/Masters of Wine Tasting
And Other Wines Recently Sampled
Two thousand and two is a highly satisfactory Burgundy vintage. The harvest was reasonably abundant, the wines ripe, structured and balanced, and quality is consistently good from red to white, Chablis to Pouilly-Fuissé. The red wines aren't quite as rich as the 1999s, but overall the whites are just as good: so this is one of the best years of the last decade.
THE WEATHER
The winter 2004-2005 was severe, very cold – but dry – both before and after Christmas. I remember it being minus 8.5°C at 8.30 in Savigny-Lès-Beaune several mornings running. This was followed by a mild February and March, allowing an easy bud-break, but this was succeeded by a cool May. This retarded the flowering, but fine weather after June 13th meant that this turned out successfully, though the crop would not be excessive. The next 10 weeks were dry, but not too hot. But thankfully there were no hailstorms.
August was warm and still dry, and this led to a situation in the early days of September where the development of the fruit – the Chardonnays more than the Pinots – was somewhat blocked.
Then there was rain. This did no harm except in Ladoix, where it was somewhat excessive, reducing the concentration of the Cortons and such Charlemagnes as come from the top of this side of the hill. This was soon followed by fine weather. From the middle of the month of September a cool north wind set in, accompanied by clear skies and cold nights. These conditions were similar to 1996 except that the crop in 1996 was larger and the weather had not been so fine in August. Volumes were reduced and concentration and potential alcohol levels accelerated by this drying wind. The Côte d'Or harvest began on the 15th September. It was over by October 1st after which the weather began to deteriorate, affecting the quality of the Hautes Côtes. Most growers picked their red grapes first. The Chardonnays certainly benefited where growers picked a week after the Ban des Vendanges as maturity was irregular. In the best cases the fruit was ripe and healthy. Today all the best cellars perform a triage (sorting through the fruit). This made the base matter finer still. It was hardly necessary to chaptalise.
THE WHITE WINES
In some cellars the malo-lactic fermentations finished early, either naturally or by design. In others, not that, paradoxically, there was much malic acidity, this fermentation had not completed by June. In one or two cellars, though the malo was over, the sugar-alcohol fermentation had not completed. In any case, the longer the fermentation, and the malo, plus the longer you can keep the wine on its fine lees, the better the wine.
“It is rare” said Jean-Pierre Latour of Latour-Giraud in Meursault, “to have concentration and richness balanced by high alcohol and such very good acidities.” The 2002s white were like the 2000s in their purity, but more concentrated, he added. Jean-Pierre Coche-Dury considers his 2002s not as good as his (splendid) 1999s, but better – richer and fatter – than his 2000s. Thierry Matrot considers 2002 the best vintage he’s ever made. He started in 1983. Several producers suggested the 2002 vintage resembled a cross between 1995 and 1978.
THE RED WINES
The reds are wines of roundness and succulence as well as of pure fruit. There is somewhat less terroir definition than in the 1999s and the expression of the 2002s will always be more about Pinot Noir than exactly were they come from. It boils down to the weather pattern. A great vintage, which by definition, is one of wines which speak loudly of their origins, is the product of a fine August (août fait le moût) as well as a fine September. August 2002 was good, but not brilliant. And the first two weeks of September were inclement as well. Many growers, despite malos which in some cases still had not finished by the time of the 2003 harvest, planned to bottle early, “to preserve the fruit.”
I asked, as one does, the growers and winemakers to compare 2002 with an older vintage. No vintage in the 1990s was suggested. One or two offered 1989 “but with better grip and more concentration.” Others opted for 1985, with the same provisos. And the wines are better made today, they all pointed out.
WHEN YOU SHOULD DRINK THE WINE
This is a fine vintage for the lesser wines, and these: Bourgogne Rouge, Côte de Beaune Villages, Marsannay, etc., and their white wine equivalents are just about ready. The lesser village wines such as Santenay will follow soon after, with Côte de Beaune premiers crus emerging from 2008. Even the Côte de Nuits premiers crus will be ready by 2010, while the top grands crus need a decade from the year of the harvest. That said, because of the nature of the tannins, I think the vintage will not go as deep into its shell in the interim as some. The 2002s will be more pleasant to drink in their adolescence than many.
THE TASTING
The following wines were sampled in London in March 2005 and in the USA in the weeks that followed.
WHITE WINES
Bâtard-Montrachet, 2002 2009-2020+ 18.5
Domaine Leflaive
Still very youthful on the nose. Full. Just a little four-square. But lots of depth underneath. Rich. Very good grip. Very concentrated. A very well-balanced, backward, masculine and very classy wine. Very fine.
Beaune, Clos des Mouches, 2002 2007-2012 16.0
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
A bit reduced. A bottle which had already been opened and sampled from for an hour was a lot better. Rich, fat, concentrated and balanced. Quite firm and backward too. Very good.
Beaune, Clos Du Dessus Des Marconnets, 2002 Now-2008 13.5
Domaine Labet-Dechelette
Village appellation contrôlée. Slightly weak on the nose. Light but fresh on the palate. Quite stylish. Reasonably positive at the end.
Chablis, Les Clos, 2002 2007-2015 17.0
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Profound Juicy. Fruity. Vigorous. Very good indeed.
Chablis, Les Forêts, 2002 2007-2014 16.0
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Stylish colour. Still youthful. Good concentration and ripeness. Quite full and concentrated. Needs time. Very good.
Chablis, Forêts, 2002 2006-2012 16.0
Domaine François Raveneau
Not as much to it as his Montée de Tonnerre. Fragrant. Flowery. Stylish. Very good.
Chablis, Montée De Tonnerre, 2002 2007-2014 17.0
Domaine François Raveneau
Crisp, profound and stylish. Very fine fruit. Very fine finish.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes, 2002 2007-2014 16.0
Domaine Bernard Morey
Domaine. Youthful colour. Mellow, ripe, gently oaky nose. Good concentration. Good depth. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced and succulent. Good style. Long and positive. Very good. Needs a year or two.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Maltroye, 2002 2007-2017 17.0
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard
Still quite reticent on the nose. Clean, full, concentrated and with very good acidity. Lovely peachy fruit. Elegant and profound. Very good indeed.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 2008-2018 18.0
Clos De La Chapelle, 2002
Domaine Duc De Magenta (Maison Louis Jadot)
Profound nose. Very high quality fruit here. Balanced and concentrated. Fullish body. Splendidly intense. Lots and lots of depth. Excellent grip. Marvellous finish. This is really fine.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, 2007-2018 18.0
Vigne Blanche, 2002
Château De La Maltroye
Gently oaky. Rich, ripe, profound and very beautiful. Fullish body. Very good grip. Lots of concentration. Very classy. Still needs time. Fine plus.
Corton Blanc, 2002 2006-2010 15.0
Domaine Du Comte Sénard
Lovely, stylish nose. Not a bit four-square which Corton Blancs often are. Medium-full body. Ripe, rich attack. Then it tails off a bit. It is fresh. But it lacks concentration, weight and zip.
Corton-Charlemagne, 2002 2008-2020+ 19.0
Domaine Bonneau Du Martray
Very lovely nose. This is flowery and fragrant, profound, complex and classy. Fullish body. Great breed and presence. Intense. Very, very long. Very, very lovely.
Corton-Charlemagne, 2002 2008-2020+ (16.5 - See Note)
Domaine Joseph Faiveley
Full, concentrated, oaky nose. Quite firm. Rich and full bodied. But slightly rigid and not the greatest zip underneath. Perhaps it is in a phase: but it doesn't sing.
Meursault, Clos De La Barre, 2002 2007-2014 16.0
Domaine Des Comtes Lafon
Village wine. Fullish, ample and concentrated. Not too oaky. Good grip and definition. Very impressive for what it is.
Meursault, 2002 2007-2014 15.5
Domaine Pierre Morey
Ripe, quite opulent and concentrated for a village example. Classy fruit. Quite backward. No undue oak. This has depth and concentration on the palate. Very good for a village wine.
Meursault, Charmes, 2002 2007-2017 17.0
Domaine Des Comtes Lafon
Surprisingly delicate on the nose. Ripe, charming, balanced and persistent. Very elegant and understated. Very good indeed.
Meursault, Narvaux, 2002 Now-2009 15.0
Domaine Joseph De Bucy
Ripe, racy, minerally and stylish. But ready now. Good.
Meursault-Blagny, 2002 2006-2012 16.5
Domaine Matrot-Wittersheim
Quite forward, but fresh, very gently oaky, rich and concentrated. Nice and minerally. Not a bit heavy. Elegant. Very good plus. Better still in a year.
Meursault-Blagny, La Jeunelotte, 2002 Now-2009 16.0
Domaine Martelet De Cherisey
Ripe, ample, rich and quite developed. Quite full. Good class but lacks a little power and real class. Very good if not great. Ready.
Montagny, 2002 2006-2012 15.5
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Quite a racy nose, if a little neutral. No oak evident. Good character on the palate. Pure, ripe, racy and balanced. A very good example indeed.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Monts Luisants, 2002 2006-2010 15.0
Domaine Dujac
Pretty. Balanced. Elegant. Forward. Young vines still? Decently long and complex at the end.
Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Combottes, 2002 2006-2010 13.0
Château De Chorey
Village appellation contrôlée. Quite oaky. Ripe and succulent. Balanced. Slightly obvious but attractive.
Puligny-Montrachet, 2002 2007-2017+ 16.0
Domaine Leflaive
Fullish body. Very good grip. Ripe. Backward for a village wine. Concentrated too. Lots of interest here. Very good.
Puligny-Montrachet, Clavaillon, 2002 2008-2018 17.5
Domaine Leflaive
Full and quite firm on the nose. Youthful. Slightly four-square, as always. Lots of depth on the palate. Lots of concentration and class too. This is fine. It needs time.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 2002 2006-2014 16.5
Maison Louis Jadot
Quite an evolved colour. The nose seems a little flat. Better on the palate though by quite some way. Yet evolving quite fast. Quite full bodied. A touch of oak. Very ripe and luscious. Balanced. Very good plus.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, 2002 2007-2017 17.0
Domaine Jacques Prieur
Some evolution on the colour. Rich, round, cedary nose. Very ripe. Quite full. Very good depth and concentration. Quite a lot of oak, yet not aggressively so. Lovely ripe fruit, almost exotic, but balanced by good acidity. Very good indeed.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, 2002 2008-2020 18.5
Maison Louis Jadot
Very impressive, white flower, fragrant nose. Excellent grip. Lots and lots of dimension. Fullish body. Gently oaky. Very concentrated. This is brilliant. Really energetic. Very fine.
Puligny-Montrachet, La Garenne, 2002 2006-2013 16.0
Domaine Marc Colin
Ripe, quite rich nose. Good depth for a Garenne. Medium weight. Crisp and peachy. Quite complex. Very harmonious. Nicely pure. Very good. Better still in a year.
Rully, 2002 Drink Soon 11.0
Domaine Éric De Suremain
A bit rustic.
Saint-Aubin, La Chatenière, 2002 Now-2010 16.0
Domaine Marc Colin
Soft, stylish, crisp and peachy on the nose. Lovely balance. Medium body. Just about ready. Ripe. Good depth. Very good for what it is.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, 2002 2006-2010 15.0
Domaine Simon Bize & Fils
Clean. No undue oak. Balanced and stylish. Fresh and very good for what it is.
RED WINES
Aloxe-Corton, Le Suchot, 2002 2008-2016 15.0
Domaine Simon Bize & Fils
Good colour. Slightly rustic, stemmy nose. Ripe. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. Finishes better than it starts. Good.
Beaune, Les Chouacheux, 2002 2008-2020 16.5
Domaine Coste-Caumartin
Good colour. Ample, generous nose. Lovely red fruit flavours. Medium-full body. Lots of depth and concentration. A little tannin. Very good finish. Very good plus.
Beaune, Clos des Mouches, 2002 2007-2019 16.0
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Medium colour. Very stylish nose. Fragrant. Round. Elegant and harmonious. Medium to medium-full body. Good acidity. Complex. Lovely finish. Very good.
Beaune, Clos Des Ursules, 2002 2009-2020+ 16.5
Maison Louis Jadot
Medium-full colour. Rich, fullish and backward. Ripe and concentrated. Lots of depth. Needs time. Very lovely finish. Very good plus.
Beaune, Aux Coucherias, 2002 2006-2009 13.0
Domaine Labet-Dechelette
Lightish colour. Anemic nose. Slight and sweet, letting the oak dominate. Medium body. Slightly astringent on the palate. Disappointing.
Beaune, Les Cras, Vieilles Vignes, 2002 2008-2020 16.0
Château De Chorey
Good colour. Full, rich and oaky on the nose and palate. Concentrated and profound. Plenty of class and lots of dimension. Very good.
Bonnes Mares, 2002 2012-2030 19.0
Domaine Georges Roumier
Full colour. Rich, backward nose. Still a bit ungainly. Not fully recovered from the bottling. A firm wine. Full, meaty, rich and very concentrated. Lovely attack. Even more impressive on the follow-through. Excellent finish. Very classy. Very fine plus.
Chambertin, 2002 2012-2030 18.5
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils
Fullish colour. Rich, quite spicy on the nose. Lots of concentration. Quite a lot of new wood here compared with the Latricières and no more concentration or depth. Stylish though. Balanced and complex and long on the palate. Very fine.
Chambolle-Musigny, 2002 2008-2020 16.0
Domaine Virgile Lignier
Good colour. Fragrant, stylish and complex on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Just a little tannin. Ripe, plump and very attractive. Fine, long finish. Very good, especially for a village wine.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, 2002 2010-2030 18.0
Domaine Frédéric Mugnier
Medium-full colour. Rich, fragrant, poised nose. Quite ethereal. Very lovely. This is persistent but delicate. Beautifully constructed and very, very Chambolle. Lovely intense, ripe finish. Fine plus.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, 2002 2011-2030 17.5
Domaine Georges Roumier
Medium-full colour. Lovely fragrant but fullish, masculine, persistent nose. Great poise and class. Medium-full body. Very lovely, almost exotic, ripe fruit. Excellent grip. Very long and persistent finish. Fine.
Chapelle-Chambertin, 2002 2010-2025 16.5
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils
Medium to medium-full colour. Good meaty, plummy nose. Balanced and stylish. Medium-full weight. Fresh and succulent but not the greatest richness and concentration. Very good plus.
Château De Monthélie, Sur La Velle, 2002 Now-2008 12.0
Domaine Éric De Suremain
Lightish colour. A little slight. Not special. Forward.
Chorey-Lès-Beaune, 2002 2007-2015 15.0
Château De Chorey
Very good colour. Ample, rich and concentrated. Unexpectedly so for a Chorey. Gently oaky. Fullish body. Quite firm. Plenty of depth. Lovely fruit. Very good for what it is.
Chorey-Lès-Beaune, 2002 2007-2014 14.5
Domaine Tollot-Beaut & Fils
Good colour. Rich and spicy on the nose. Tasted more oaky than the Château de Chorey. Ripe and plump. Medium-full body. Good richness on the follow-through. Good plus for what it is.
Clos De La Roche, Vieilles Vignes, 2002 2012-2030 19.0
Domaine Ponsot
Fullish colour. Very profound, rich, concentrated nose. This is splendid. Fullish body. Chocolaty. Excellent depth. Very fine fruit. Essence of wine here. Excellent. Still very young. Very fine plus.
Clos De Vougeot, 2002 2012-2030 19.0
Domaine Jean Grivot
Full colour. Very fine, quite oaky nose. Yet profound and concentrated. Full body. No undue oak on the palate. Rich and concentrated and backward. But splendidly classy and harmonious already. Very long.
Clos De Vougeot, Vieilles Vignes, 2002 2010-2025 16.0
Domaine Labet-Dechelette, Château De La Tour
Medium colour. Fruity and balanced but slightly weedy for a 2002 grand cru on the nose. Evidence of the stems too. Medium body. Good balance. Quite rich. This is very good. But it should be a lot better.
Clos De Vougeot, 2002 2012-2030 18.5
Domaine Méo-Camuzet
Full colour. Firm, backward nose. Took time to come out of the glass. When it did I saw opulence, plenty of substance and rich, balanced, succulent fruit. Lovely long, stylish finish. Very fine.
Clos Vougeot, 2002 2008-2020 18.0
Domaine Daniel Rion
Fullish colour. Plump, accessible, juicy-fruity, cherry-flavoured nose. Quite oaky. Medium to medium-full body. Very soft. Very succulent. Very attractive. Fresh and quite classy. But atypical and a little one-dimensional.
Corton, 2002 2009-2020+ 17.5
Domaine Bonneau Du Martray
Good colour. Rich, meaty nose. Fat and concentrated. Just a little oaky. Lots of depth and class. Fullish body. Good tannins. Balanced and fragrant. Very good grip. Fine.
Corton, Bressandes, 2002 2009-2020+ 18.0
Domaine Chandon De Briailles
Medium colour. Ripe, rich, fragrant, stylish nose. Medium-full body. Good vigour and depth. Classy and persistent. Lots of dimension. Lovely finish. Fine plus.
Corton, Bressandes, 2002 2009-2020+ 18.5
Domaine Du Comte Sénard
Good colour. Plump, succulent nose. Plenty of vigour. Plenty of fruit. This is rather more structural than usual and a lot more classic. Very lovely, complex, classy fruit. Long and intense. Very fine.
Corton, Le Clos Du Roi, 2002 2010-2025 17.5
Domaine Du Comte Sénard
Good colour. Quite full, firm, rich nose. Plenty of depth. Quite earthy on the palate. Some tannin. More backward than his Bressandes and it doesn't sing as much today. But fine.
Corton, Les Renardes, 2002 2010-2025 18.0
Domaine Michel Gaunoux
Good colour. Good stylish, fragrant fruit on the nose. Fullish bodied, rich and balanced but a bit four-square on the palate. Yet rich and intense on the follow-through. Fine plus.
Fixin, Clos Marion, 2002 2007-2014 14.0
Domaine Fougeray De Beauclair
Medium to medium-full colour. Slightly loose-knit nose. But ample and fruity if no great style. Medium body. No tannins to absorb. Slightly one-dimensional. A decent wine but no great depth or elegance or dimension. Quite forward.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 2002 2012-2030 17.5
Domaine Joseph Faiveley
Medium-full colour. Still very youthful on the nose. Medium-full body. Quite tannic though. Underneath excellent grip. Very concentrated fruit and lots of depth. Very long. Lovely. Fine.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 2002 2010-2030 17.5
Domaine Bruno Clair
Medium-full colour. Firm, full, very classy - even dignified - nose. Medium-full body. The usual slightly lean touch of Bruno Clair but very clean and poised and persistent. Fine.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites, 2002 2010-2025 17.0
Domaine Alain Burguet
Good colour. Lovely, rich nose. Good structure. Very good depth. Typically Gevrey. Medium-full body. A touch of oak. Very blackberry and blackcurranty. Good tannins. Very good grip. As usual excellent for a village wine.
Latricières-Chambertin, 2002 2012-2030 19.0
Domaine Joseph Faiveley
Full colour. Splendidly rich and opulent on the nose. Creamy-rich, old vine character. Full body. Backward palate. Some tannin. Rich, concentrated and classic. Very lovely style. Very fine plus.
Latricières-Chambertin, 2002 2012-2030 18.5
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils
Medium-full colour. Rather more depth, class and interest than in their Chapelle-Chambertin. Fullish body, vigorous and concentrated. This is very promising. Lots of class too on the palate. Balanced. Multi-dimensional. Very fine.
Marsannay, Les Longeroies, 2002 2008-2020 15.5
Domaine Bruno Clair
Medium to medium-full colour. Very lovely pure Pinot on the nose. Medium body. Very ripe, almost sweet. But balanced, succulent and very stylish. Long finish. Very lovely. A splendid example of what it is.
Monthélie, 2002 2007-2013 14.0
Domaine Pierre Morey
Ripe, earthy, with a touch of oak. Good grip. Medium body. Good for what it is.
Monthélie, Les Duresses, 2002 2007-2014 15.5
Domaine Annick Parent
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, fragrant, stylish nose. Medium weight. Still a little raw but very elegant, ripe fruit. Clean and balanced. Long. Very good for what it is.
Morey-Saint-Denis, 2002 2009-2025 16.0
Domaine Dujac
Medium-full colour. Fragrant nose. Signs of the stems. Ripe, opulent, fresh and rich on the palate. Good energy and intensity. Long and impressive. Very good indeed for a village wine.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Chenevery, 2002 2008-2022 16.5
Domaine Virgile Lignier
Good colour. Ripe nose. Some new oak. No great concentration but composed and stylish. Medium to medium-full body. A little tannin. Rich. Good vigour. Elegant. Long. Very good plus.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos De La Buissière, 2002 2011-2025 16.0
Domaine Georges Roumier
Full colour. Ripe, full, spicy but backward nose. Fullish body. Some tannin. As always, especially compared with his Chambolle Les Cras, a touch rustic. But meaty and spicy and very good.
Musigny, 2002 2012-2030 20.0
Domaine Frédéric Mugnier
Medium-full colour. Very exquisite fruit on the nose. rich and succulent and very finely poised. This is very intensely concentrated, yet not a bit heavy. Essence of wine, indeed, and really fine elegance. Very, very long and very, very lovely.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, 2002 2020-2025 16.0
Domaine Henri Gouges
Fullish colour. Lovely rich, positive nose. Very stylish and full of interest for a village wine. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Good grip. Lots of dimension. Very good indeed for what it is.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Au Bas De Combe, 2002 2008-2017 15.5
Domaine Jean Tardy
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe and succulent, sweet and oaky on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Quite rich. Good concentration. Stylish and balanced. Lots of charm. Fresh. Clean. Very good.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Boudots, 2002 2012-2030 17.5
Domaine Méo-Camuzet
Full colour. Rich, quite oaky nose. Some tannin. Plenty of depth. Fullish body. Very well balanced. Fresh and rip. No undue oak on the palate. Intense and concentrated. This is fine. Just a touch four-square perhaps, but this should go.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Chaignots, 2002 2010-2020+ 17.5
Domaine Alain Michelot
Good full colour. Rich, full, aromatic on the nose. Very cassis, blackberry nose. Very good acidity. Bigger, fatter and more concentrated than the 1999. A little tannin. Richer. More substantial. A lot of depth. Lovely acidity. This is fine.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges, 2002 2014-2030 17.5
Domaine Henri Gouges
Fullish colour. Rich, full nose. Very lovely fruit. Not a bit too brutally tannic. Full body. Quite substantial. Some tannin, of course. Lovely black fruit. Very good grip. Still very youthful. Fine but needs time.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, 2002 2013-2030 18.0
Domaine Henri Gouges
Full colour. Quite a lot more backward than their Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges. Still rather closed. Full bodied. Quite tannic. Yet underneath, lots of fruit and concentration and very good grip. Surely fine plus.
Pernand-Vergelesses, Ile De Vergelesses, 2002 2007-2015 16.0
Domaine Chandon De Briailles
Medium colour. Fragrant, stylish, persistent nose. A little light and an absence of concentration and vigour on the palate. Elegant but forward. Yet an intense, elegant finish. Very good.
Pommard, Clos Des Boucherottes, 2002 2010-2025 17.5
Domaine Coste-Caumartin
Premier cru. Good colour. Rich, full, backward nose. Fullish. Some tannin. Splendidly concentrated fruit. Lots and lots of depth. Fine.
Pommard, Les Charmots, 2002 2008-2015 14.0
Domaine Gabriel Billard
Lightish colour. Soft, ripe, slightly spicy nose. No great class but ample and decently ripe tannins. A touch sweet. Medium to medium-full body. Quite forward for what it is. Quite good.
Pommard, Les Grands Epenots, 2002 2007-2015 15.5
Domaine Michel Gaunoux
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe but a little lacking zip and vigour on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Lacks hightones. Decent grip but not quite enough richness and zip. Good plus at best.
Pommard, Les Rugiens, 2002 2007-2015 15.5
Domaine Hubert De Montille
Medium to medium-full colour. Plump, fruity nose. Medium to medium-full body. Pleasantly fruity on the palate, but not much dimension or individuality. Decently positive finish so good plus.
Rully, Préaux, 2002 2007-2013 14.0
Domaine Éric De Suremain
Light in both colour and nose. Slightly lean on the attack but better, both richer and with more dimension, on the follow-through. Good for what it is.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, La Dominode, 2002 See Note -
Domaine Bruno Clair
Good colour. Slightly herbaceous on the nose. The tannins are a bit hard. Yet on the palate a touch over-evolved. Is this bottle sick still? Medium-full body. I would like to see this again.
Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Marconnets, 2002 2008-2016 15.0
Domaine Simon Bize & Fils
Good colour. Slightly stemmy on the nose. A little astringent on the palate. Fat but earthy. Rich and balanced though. Good.
Volnay, 1er Cru, 2002 2006-2014 15.0
Domaine du Marquis D'Angerville
Medium colour. Lovely fragrant nose. Rich, cherry-raspberry. Gentle but persistent. Medium weight. Fresh. Balanced. Elegant. Positive. Very good. Quite forward.
Volnay, 2002 2006-2012 16.0
Maison Camille Giroud
Medium colour. Fresh, fragrant and stylish. Medium weight. Good acidity. Pure. Elegant, even complex. Quite forward but very good for what it is.
Volnay, Champans, 2002 2008-2020+ 18.0
Domaine du Marquis D'Angerville
Medium to medium-full colour. Rather more substantial than the Frémiets. Medium-full bodied, rich, meaty for a Volnay. Backward. Slightly earthy at the moment. Very lovely intense, complex finish. Fine.
Volnay, Clos des Chênes, 2002 2008-2020+ 19.0
Domaine Michel Lafarge
Medium-full colour. Very lovely nose. Rich, ample and gently oaky. Elegant and complex. A true Volnay. Very fragrant and very concentrated. Yet not a blockbuster. Very delicious fruit. This is very fine plus.
Volnay, Frémiets, 2002 2007-2020 17.0
Domaine du Marquis D'Angerville
Medium to medium-full colour. Fragrant, balanced and really quite intense on nose and palate. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh. Persistent. Very good indeed.
Volnay, Santenots du Milieu, 2002 2010-2025 18.0
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Fullish colour. Rich, full, oaky nose. Lots of depth here. Quite full. Plenty of concentration. Some tannin. Vigorous and very promising. Backward. Lovely finish. Fine plus.
Volnay, Taillepieds, 2002 2007-2015 15.5
Domaine Hubert De Montille
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft nose. A little weak and feeble. Better on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Decent grip. But a little skinny. Good plus at best.
Vosne-Romanée, 2002 2010-2025 16.0
Domaine Jean Grivot
Full colour. Firm, backward, ripe and profound on the nose. Similar on the palate. Very good grip. Vigorous. Very good indeed for what it is.
Vosne-Romanée, 2002 2009-2023 16.0
Domaine Dominique Mugneret
Good colour. Finely balanced. Very ripe fruit. Generous and succulent. Good weight and plenty of dimension. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins, just about absorbed. Classy. Lots of depth. Very good, especially for a village wine.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, 2002 2012-2025 19.0
Domaine Jean Grivot
Full colour. Still closed-in on the nose but potentially very fine. This is quite lovely. Very concentrated. Marvellously fresh, complex fruit. Very intense and persistent. Really elegant. Really fine.
Vougeot, Les Cras, 2002 2009-2020 15.5
Domaine De La Vougeraie
Medium-full colour. Plump nose. Slightly earthy. Medium to medium-full body. Not a great deal of tannin. Good acidity. Slightly raw at present. Will get more generous as it ages. Ripe and stylish though. Good plus.
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